Romancing the Food: G.N.A. Ristorante in West Reading

by Marian Frances Wolbers, Photography by Heidi Reuter

November 27, 2017

10:39 AM

Celebrating 40-plus years of dishing up mouthwatering Italian cheeses, pasta, seafood, steak, roasted peppers, pizza and special treats — including that terrific invention of meat-stuffed meat called braggiole (braciola) — G.N.A. Ristorante continues to pack in fans with its attention to solidly high-quality ingredients and a distinctive, varied menu. It’s all about traditional Italian food, done right.

The restaurant’s interior is enormous, although it doesn’t appear that way from the outside of the building. There are separate areas for dining, a bar, family seating, more intimate seating for lovey couples or small parties, and larger gatherings, from Christmas and year-end parties to football game viewing and other sports crowds.

Call in the Antipasto Rustico!

Once you’ve settled on your wine, beer or cocktail of choice (what a superb selection — but, hey, sometimes all you really need is a classic chianti), start off with something everyone can enjoy: Antipasto Rustico. From the tangy olives and artichoke hearts to old-country cheeses and imported meats, this appetizer comes to the table on its own board, so you immediately feel transported to the countryside. (Imagine olive trees on the streets outside.) Pluck a hunk of soft ’n crusty bread, then dig into a combination of mild and sharp, milky and elegant cheeses next to stuffed cherry peppers and thin-sliced, curled rolls or small piles of cured meats, each with its own texture, oiliness and flavor. Palate heaven.

The Bruschetta’s diced tomatoes are super fresh (no mushiness whatsoever); melted cheese and extra-virgin olive oil complete these bite-sized toasts. A lovely Burrata Capresa is also on the menu, featuring richly soft pieces of mozzarella inside a mozzarella pouch that looks about the size of a tennis ball. The creamy cheese is uplifted by the robust-yet-sweet balsamic glaze drizzled atop, with browned tomatoes to nibble on as well.

Of course, there are many other traditional faves as starters — calamari, cold shrimp cocktail, mussels and clam dishes. The Fiori di Zucca is gorgeous to behold and enjoy: it’s battered-then-baked squash blossoms stuffed with cheese and ham. Mmm. No wonder some folks just stick with appetizers and call it a meal…

Taking Time, Making Memories,Making Food Last

…But if you’re Italian, you know better. Meals are multi-coursed. They’re meant to be enjoyed slowly. G.N.A.’s comforting but classy atmosphere reminds diners of what dinner is all about. You find yourself downshifting naturally, comfortably, lingering between luscious bites, conversing and murmuring and sipping. Having a bottle of cold, imported water as part of the whole experience balances out the stomach’s digestive work and is crisply refreshing.

Salad choices abound, with fresh lettuce cut twice every day. And even the simplest tossed salad is a treasure —partly due to its bright carrots and herby, bruschetta-style tomatoes — but mostly for its truly perfect, none-too-sour, well-blended house vinaigrette dressing. There’s something elusive about making salad greens as tasty as they possibly can be. G.N.A. could easily bottle this dressing and live happily ever after.

Pasta, Pasta

A colorful, rich Casarecce al Granchio e Spinaci marries fat morsels of jumbo crabmeat together with twisted, tube-shaped pasta called casarecce, which grab closely onto luscious crab flavors mingled with herbed baby spinach leaves and cherry tomatoes that have been sautéed in olive oil and white wine. This succulent offering lets G.N.A.’s homemade pasta assume the commanding presence it well deserves. With a chewy, elegantly satisfying texture (al dente, of course), this pasta represents the best of Italian care in the kitchen. Whatever this amazing family is doing to ensure authenticity is surely a key reason pasta-lovers become loyal clientele at this dining establishment.

Diners have a lot of say and can have their way — choosing the style of pasta and the exact sauce that appeals to them (red sauce, white clam sauce, pink vodka sauce), along with beloved accompaniments like meatballs and sausage. Cheese, meat and spinach ravioli are always on hand.

A Tower of Filet Mignon

Torre di Filetto is a crazy, wonderful “filet mignon tower” constructed of three sumptuous filet medallions in a stack. Great look! So inviting. Delectably juicy. These babies are layered with grilled beefsteak tomatoes, Swiss cheese, spinach, and jumbo lump crabmeat. This signature dish is enveloped by an insanely delicious, lightly creamy red pepper sauce.

Unforgettable, though, is the way the chef honors salmon. The Salmone con Prosecco, Pomodoro, e Basilico is stunning with a sauce made of champagne, mellow tomatoes, and pungent basil. Try this supple fish with sides of savory, warm rosemary potatoes and just-steamed broccoli.

Predictably, the layered Tiramisu is top-notch, of a light and airy consistency — not over-sweetened but just sweet enough — creamy on the bottom and cakey in the middle. The espresso comes from Italy. This ranks as one of the best tiramisus ever.

1 of 6