Trooper Thorn's First-Class Flight to Irish, Scottish Fare

by Marian Frances Wolbers, Photography by Heidi Reuter

August 6, 2018

9:00 AM

Offering “Pub Fayre” like Chicken ‘n Chips and Scottish Meat Pie, as well as full-on entrees like Jameson (Irish Whiskey) Crab Cakes and Petit Filet, Trooper Thorn’s pub and restaurant has solidly established itself as an Irish and Scottish haven for stellar beers and exquisitely prepared traditional dishes. Many are created from the owners’ family recipes — direct from Ireland and Scotland. Centrally located just 10 minutes or so from downtown Reading or Shillington, and quite close to Alvernia University and the Reading Police Academy, this gem of a dining destination should be on everyone’s “go-to” list for its homey hospitality, tremendous beer list, and obvious dedication to preparing excellent food. A hearty, well-deserved shout-out goes to Chef Brendan Speicher and his hard-working kitchen staff.

Diners can enjoy the outdoor deck or stay indoors, while summery ingredients dominate soups and daily specials.

Sausage Rolls and a Distinctive Shepherd’s Pie

Though Trooper’s is beloved for its wings, clams and Build-Your-Own Burgers, with that Irish-Celtic-Scottish music playing in the background, why not stretch the palate and pull out all the stops with traditional foods? The Scottish delicacy of Sausage Rolls is a piquant, savory appetizer, perfectly pairing with Harp lager from Ireland or Belhaven Scottish Ale (Nitro), which is classically sweet, smooth and malty (the longest-brewed, signature beverage made in Belhaven’s “stable”). Seasoned pork sausage is blanketed in flaky pastry and served hot on a slate plate along with HP sauce (for tanginess). The three rolls are richly golden and tan in color, and the crispy folds enhance the texture experience, as you bite in to find the sausage. An aromatic scent fills and tantalizes the mouth. Expect some nice, spicy heat from the meat itself — and cool off with the ale!

Trooper Long Hots (as in hot peppers) are cooked in garlic and olive oil then garnished with mozzarella shards and accompanied by crostini. Crabby Chips are potato fries covered with crab dip and cheddar. An unusual appetizer not readily found anywhere in Berks is the Scotch Egg, where a hardboiled egg is set inside flavored sausage and then deep-fried, with spicy mustard on the side.

Predictably, the Shepherd’s Pie is a favorite meal amongst Berks Countians. “It’s what I get every time I come!” admits one customer. And no wonder: this variation on Shepherd’s Pie is a long, tall slab of a serving, with juicy beef, some spice, tiny carrot bits, and a modicum of peas (just enough) on the bottom, layered with a thick top of lightly seasoned, roasted-flavor mashed potatoes and drizzled with rich, dark brown, beefy gravy. Thoroughly good, ample enough in size to take a bit home, but primarily this dish works because the pie really allows the beef flavor to dominate.

Seafood Superstars

Mr. Tom’s Salmon Cakes are named for a beloved father and grandfather whose legacy speaks volumes in this amazing entrée. Two perfectly broiled and browned (both top and bottom) light pink salmon cakes rest on greens in the presentation. They are loaded and lumpy with fresh salmon that’s been gently blended with finely diced asparagus and onion, plus some lemon. The latter ingredients not only create interesting texture and flavor but become a proper, nearly invisible yet utterly necessary background — just as an important onstage prop never detracts from the main actor. The elegant salmon is the true star, and you’ll barely want to touch the homemade tartar sauce, except for the fact that it is homemade, and it is indeed yummy.

Cooked carrots complement the dish well, especially the curried version of this side. They’re served in thin, long, diagonal slices, just-crunchy and holding a warm and cozy feel. Nana’s Coleslaw, made from scratch, seals the whole deal on this platter. Once more the diner is treated to fresh ingredients created with care and true to a recipe, yielding a salad that’s not overly tangy or overly creamy, balanced well — and honoring yet another loving relative for her culinary contribution to Trooper Thorn’s.

That same coleslaw makes a steady appearance with home-cut fries alongside superb Fish & Chips, another well-loved specialty of the house. The haddock — one large, gorgeous, sweet filet — tenderly melts in your mouth. It’s so, so good. With fish and chips, the batter is crucial, and Trooper’s must come from a secret recipe because it is stellar.

Save Space for Bread Pudding

If you’re someone who’s fond of bread pudding, tell your stomach to save room for a devastatingly delicious version of this old-fashioned, soft, warm dessert topped with vanilla sauce. Honestly, this dessert is indescribable: it’s light yet super-satisfying, sweet yet not-sweet. Texturally, it’s as light as a cloud, but it looks like a burning barge. Each week the bread pudding changes based on what’s in season. Recently offered: an absolutely to-die-for strawberry-rhubarb Bread Pudding.

Trooper Thorn's

451 Morgantown Rd., Reading

610.685.4944. trooperthorns.com

Hours: Mon: 4pm-2am; Tues-Sat: 11:30-2am; Sun: 11-2am

Plan for St. Patty’s. Did you know Trooper Thorn’s keeps a countdown clock for the holiday? It’s true! Head over March 17 to celebrate with friends and family.

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