Think of any meal, from the backyard barbecue to the traditional holiday repast. The centerpiece is usually the meat. It’s the backbone of the entertaining menu and the most expensive item in the meal.
But questions abound: Where does the meat come from? How were the animals raised? What methods are used to prepare different kinds of meats? And which side dishes and beverages pair best with which cuts?
Local Questions, Local Answers
A time-honored place for answers is the local butcher. And in Berks County, there is no better place to start than at Dundore and Heister, a whole animal butcher shop located on the west end of Penn Avenue in Wyomissing.
“We’re a butcher from a simpler time,” says Tod Auman, principal founder. Auman remembers visiting the butcher shop with his mom. “Everyone went to the butcher, and he would always have great advice on cuts of meat, preparation and what to pair with the meat.”
“I wanted to recreate that,” Auman continues. “We (in Berks County) are blessed with amazing soil, hardworking farmers, and our consumers are becoming aware of how special local food is.”
An afternoon visit to Dundore and Heister is like stepping into an old neighborhood butcher. Operations coordinator Danielle Stubblebine greets shoppers by name. Young mothers carry toddlers on hips, while local office workers order sandwiches to go.
Gleaming glass-fronted meat cases showcase dry aged cuts of beef, various cuts of pork, lamb, chicken and sausage. All are organic and locally pasture-raised.
Walls are lined with other local fare, carefully selected to reflect the rich Pennsylvania Dutch heritage of Berks.
And outside, organic farmer Sean McDermott from Oak Nut Farm is busy setting up an open-air produce stand.
Whole Animal Butchery
At Dundore and Heister, the process of whole animal butchery is evident.
Behind the scenes is a small, nicely flowing butcher shop where whole animal usage is in full display.
At one end, head chef Craig Lewis watches over young butcher Michael Frank as he breaks down a side of beef, saving every part for a variety of uses.
Around the corner, chef Jacob Brewer lifts the lid on a pot of bone broth, which is 24 hours into a 48-hour cooking process.
Creating Community
For Auman and Stubblebine, more magic happens when conversation begets community.
Behind the counter, Katie Bohn and Liz McGlinn answer questions about meat, wine pairings and cooking methods. Phone calls are constant. It’s evident that Dundore and Heister, just 4 years old, is a valued resource for “locavores” — those that want to eat clean and eat locally-sourced foods.
For Auman, the bottom line is that meat is a medium for people to connect.
“If we tell people where their food comes from, if we show people how to connect over the food they are preparing, we help bring back some of the family and community values we may have lost,” he says.
“It’s eating like we live here,” he says, which has become Dundore and Heister’s mantra.
And it works. The meat tastes fantastic. The memories — from Dundore and Heister and the meals that surround the meat — can last a lifetime.
Dundore and Heister
1331 Penn Avenue, Wyomissing.
610.374.6328 | dundoreandheister.com
Local means Local. Make a stop at Elverson’s Conebella Farm for local cheeses and spreads. conebellafarm.com
New Taste Sensation. Those with a savory palate may enjoy Dundore and Heister’s pork paté with finishing salt.
