*Note: this article went to press prior to the social distancing and stay-at-home orders during the COVID-19 pandemic. It is our hope that we’ll return to a time when you can support and try The Beer Wall soon!
Mingle at the taps, taste-test a stellar variety of cold craft brews, play games and nosh on fine fare in an exciting-yet-cozy atmosphere — that’s the good time promised when you visit Beer Wall On Penn in West Reading. With its customer-friendly parking lot in the alleyway parallel to Penn, this unique drink-and-dine establishment provides a truly appealing path to enjoying a night out on the town.
Offering 38 beers on tap that you actually pour for yourself (you’ll be guided on the “system” when you first take a seat) and inviting free access to old-school arcade and tabletop games, including foosball, founder Josue Matos was delighted when his dream gastropub came to life in 2018. His idea for the Beer Wall was the direct result of a final business studies project he completed for Albright College’s adult bachelor’s degree program at the School of Professional Studies.
Joshua Stenchever is a key member of the Beer Wall team, giving much credit for their success to a committed, attentive staff, with high praise for the creative talents of Chef Ben. “It’s a huge collaboration,” says Stenchever. All the foods are made with intention: to go with beer. “Ben helped build the menu, and all the sauces — that’s all his work,” he asserts.
The Applewood Burger and Duck Fat Fries
“Take the Applewood Burger,” Stenchever says. The Applewood is a very popular choice with diners. “I knew I wanted to do stuffed burgers, and Chef Ben set the plan in motion.” The result: a fabulous, made-from-scratch burger that resembles a stout, sturdy boxer in his best shape, combining a blend of pork and beef with whiskey onions, applewood bacon cut thick, a smoky honey-barbecue sauce, and smoked cheddar. It’s perfectly sized — not grossly large, nor unwieldly. The beer choice is all yours, a wide-open road — from hoppy to citrus, to smooth and stout. On a recent evening, two utterly yummy darks included Imperial Eclipse-Joseph Magnus (from California) and Heavy Boots of Stout Imperial Stout (Astoria, NY).
The luxurious, lingering taste of campfire imparted by that burger is bested only by an appetizer of Duck Fat Fries, the likes of which defy description; they simply must be experienced. Unique in flavor and texture, richly tasty without fattiness, cut like thin crescents or planks (similar to steak fries, only slender), these ducky fries receive truffle zest and shaved parmesan as heavenly assets, topped with fresh-chopped scallions and sexy garlic aioli sauce.
Other hot-selling items include Hot Chicken, breaded strips with toasted white bread and hot honey; Pretzel Nuggets sprinkled with cracked sea salt, parsley and parmesan; and the ALT — or Avocado Lover’s Toast. These are all designed with the tap in mind, and sharing with others. A nice selection of locally sourced wines (Folino Estate, Pinnacle Ridge, Waltz) and original cocktail drinks are also available from a traditional bar. The Sonic Old-Fashioned is a throwback to Prohibition flavors with blended whiskey, muddled black cherry and apple, Boardroom Rye Whiskey bitters and club soda, sporting brown sugar and cinnamon on the rim.
Salsa Verde Sirloin Tacos: Humming with Piquant Flavor
Tacos made of Roasted Lamb, Creole Shrimp, or Wild Mushrooms — all of which are served in twos, in side-by-side boats — include a mound of seasoned rice. But there is one taco that any beef-lover would adore: the Salsa Verde Sirloin Taco contains a magical combination of seared sirloin tips, aromatic cilantro, black beans, pico de gallo and a juicy salsa verde that will replay harmonically in your senses long after you’ve poured your last draft. What a lovely, lively combination of astringency and mellowness!
A somewhat calmer, softer approach to dinner lies in a stunningly inventive Brisket Mac ’n Cheese. Here, white-cheese-saturated, curlicue Cavatappi noodles are presented in a large, low bowl with slow-braised brisket streaming across the center like the Equator. Bread crumbs, chives, parmesan cheese and sautéed onions lend subtle accents to each bite of pasta and smoky meat.
Another dish worth mentioning (though fair warning, it may sell out before you even sit down) is Chef Ben’s signature Stout Beef Stew. In truth, no one can really blame a “scratch kitchen” for running out of a delicious entrée, after all. “We execute every dish the way we’d like to,” says Chef Ben. “And you never know when every ticket in the early evening comes up with Stout Beef Stew on it.” He shrugs, adding, “It’s just what happens sometimes!” His UK-style stew deploys barley and stout with rosemary as a smooth, rich base for hearty beef cubes that are cooked to fall-apart tenderness. Carrots, potatoes, onions and celery round out this specialty in traditional fashion.
Vegetarian choices include a pea protein Vegan Patty, enhanced by high-nutrient ingredients like red beets and toasted sesame jicama slaw for nuttiness and depth.
There’s such a joyful spirit here. Check it out.
Beer Wall on Penn
619 Penn Avenue, West Reading
610.743.5744
Hours
Mon: 5pm-12am
Tues-Sun: 11-12am
Note: Downstairs at The Beer Wall offers full-table service and is kid-friendly for those under the age of 21 as long as they are accompanied by a legal guardian over the age of 25.
