Snuzzles is exactly as it sounds. Located less than a half-hour from the northernmost end of Reading on a hillside in the outer Kutztown-Lyons-Dryville-Mertztown area, it’s a longtime local insiders’ secret hangout.
There is no sign outside marking the building and its ample gravel parking lot. That’s because the owners are big believers in word-of-mouth advertising. “If you’re here it’s because this was your destination. It’s not like you were driving by,” they say. But Snuzzles holds many and feeds many; it’s spacious with its numerous tables and booths, yet feels snug and warm and super friendly. Enveloped in red oak on all sides, including long-angled beams along the ceiling, it has a refreshing, rustic character.
One family might call it their favorite family-night pizza place. A couple holding hands near the enormous open-hearth fireplace may regard it as their only place to go for stromboli and a beer. Three tables away are eight graying guys in plaid workshirts and trousers, fighting good-naturedly over towering piles of perfectly browned onion rings and long, fat steak fries with cheese sauce to dip in, as they wait for their steak sandwiches and Italian hoagies. No one, it seems, can walk out empty handed. The portions are so generous, there’s always a take-home box or bag of something.
It’s all part of the Snuzzles experience.
Chef Ellen has one goal in mind for every man, woman, and child who sits down to eat there. “Full,” she says with a determined twinkle in her eyes. “I want everybody to feel full when they leave us. Oh, and carrying food home, too.”
THAT’S AMORE
The pizza list is full all by itself. (Yes, there are salads aplenty, but face it, the pizza, stromboli, and original overloaded sandwiches are why everybody’s here.) The Portabello Pleasure pizza sizzles in the lineup of the “pizza with attitude,” along with the hot sauce-heavy Firecracker and a signature Clams Casino pizza made with chopped clams, bacon, peppers, cheddar and garlic. Basic cheese pizzas come in many varieties, including provolone and A Lotta Ricotta, with all the toppings a carnivore or vegetarian could want. The Not Quite All of It pizza is a heavy-laden pie of everything from pepperoni to sausage to sweet peppers, onions, anchovies and ham. Snuzzles’ fresh ingredients and quality cheeses marry well with their satisfying homemade doughy pizza crust and full-bodied tomato sauce.
Newer offerings include the catchy Popper Pepper pie, with chicken and jalapeno heat. Sweetie Pie is like a meal and dessert in one—ricotta and mozzarella cheeses baked with pineapples, pears, and peaches.
SIZEABLE STROMBOLIS
For newcomers to this homey lodge, there’s really nothing like the first time a Snuzzles stromboli arrives, shouldered by a strong waitress on a large tray. Just one of these folded Italian-bread-dough turnovers could feed half a baseball team. They are huge. Enormous. Fat. And steaming hot with lusciously melted cheese and meats and vegetables. They are served with forks and steak knives, because there is no way on earth a mere human can hold this stromboli in his hands and just bite down. Once the size shock abates, it’s time to slice into that fabulously crusty dough.
Many regulars favor the Stromboli Stromboli, layered to perfection with imported ham, capicola, salami, sweet peppers, sauce and mozzarella. But the Chick-otta Stromboli will melt your heart. It’s created with thin-sliced, tender chicken, tomato sauce and mozzarella, topped off by creamy, pure ricotta oozing out of every bite, falling onto the plate. It’s got a lasagna-esque texture except for the fresh-baked bread (not pasta) in every bite. Grab yourself a pile of paper dinner napkins from their wooden holder on the table: you’ll easily have three napkins mopping your mouth simultaneously. This is one happy mess to eat. And unless you ordered this football-sized beauty to share with three or four friends, you’ll be taking it home and enjoying it for a few more days.
The bread-y creativity doesn’t stop there by any means. There are roast beef, steak, cheese, pastrami, turkey, fresh veggie and South of the Border strombolis. The latter is made with spiced ground beef, Snuzzles’ own “severe salsa,” refried beans and cheddar.
SUPER SANDWICHES
The deli-style sandwiches are all original and take up a good part of the menu. The Ellen—named after the chef herself—is impossibly perfect. It’s generous slices of roasted turkey, juiced with succulent, tangy coleslaw, melted cheese and Russian dressing. Served on pungent marble rye, pumpernickel, or plain rye, this classic stands about four or five inches tall, adorned with a half-sour pickle slice and chips on the side. (The deli-style coleslaw in itself is scrumptious.)
The Bart is for tuna fans. It’s embellished with bacon strips, egg, Russian dressing and provolone (baked just before serving—um-m-m). Then there’s the Joey, the Uncle Jerry, the Bill, the Meglet, the Snuzzlene, the Snuzzle Stuffer, the Snuzzled, and on and on. Get ready for a fun choice here.
You’ll not find desserts, except for several enticing after-dinner drinks, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. These stand in for traditional desserts—smart endings, indeed, after such superhuman entrées.
The best part? Not just generous and delicious, but affordable—even for a large family. SNUZZLES | 145 Lyons Rd., Mertztown | 610.682.7272 | snuzzles.net
BY MARIAN WOLBERS | PHOTOS BY SHAWN RUTKOWSKI, BERKS COUNTY PHOTOGRAPHY
