Every December, the ever-popular Italian restaurant known as “Anthony’s” — or, more formally, Anthony’s Trattoria — has been keeping up a Christmas Eve tradition right here in Berks County. It’s a tradition that harks back to the homeland: the Seven Fishes Dinner, where pre-Christmas fasting is broken by enjoying lots of fish with family, friends and community. It’s one of owner Bill Salvatore’s favorite times of the year, a time when he gets into the kitchen.
“I cook it all myself,” he says, smiling broadly. “There’s a real vibe here, lots of energy — everybody getting out, seeing other people. Fifteen years ago, we just thought it would be a good idea, but now it’s become a custom.” The dinner is by reservation only, and it does sell out — so if that is your idea of a great way to spend Christmas Eve, get on the phone to save a table.
Otherwise, the fully enticing offerings at Anthony’s are available throughout the year, with longtime Chef Victor (22 years of service) offering what Bill describes as a “two-sided menu” that features traditional, fully Italian dishes as well as Americanized items “to keep everybody happy!”
With a full parking lot most evenings, Anthony’s has become like home to a vast number of steady customers, while others head there for elegant repasts to celebrate birthdays and other special occasions.
The wine list is long, plus there’s a full bar and ample dining areas where tiny lights twinkle and sparkle charmingly, romantically across the ceiling.
Zucchini Fries, Insalata Caprese and Chianti to Start
As you pore over the vast list of pasta, seafood, beef and chicken entrees, start off with a gorgeous goblet of good, old-fashioned house wine, like Chianti or Lambrusco.
A fun appetizer to try is Fiammiferi di Zucca, or what Salvatore refers to as healthy fries: “Like French fries, only zucchini!” Cut in slender strips and lightly fried, these are served with mellow marinara sauce. Not overly filling, they simply whet the appetite, prep it for the next course.
The Insalata Caprese is incredibly fresh and fragrant with basil. It’s served on a glass plate so that loose greens stay cool as they’re topped with bright red tomato slices (from Salvatore’s own gardens) along with generously fat, soft mozzarella rounds and whole basil leaves. The gentle crunch of greens and fragrant mixtures of arugula, herbs, and oh-so-special olive oil directly imported from vats in Italy make this a superb starter dish.
For a party of two or more, try the very shareable La Pizza d’Acqua, a super-thin pizza with a buttery crust that’s crispy on the ends and smoothly melted with buffalo mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil, and a dash of red chili pepper for a “just enough” burn as it travels to the stomach.
The house salad is given a protein boost with saucy strips of salami and cheese and lots of different greens, plus a tomato wedge; the house Balsamic dressing is a stunning balance of sweet and vinegar-sour, while the bleu cheese dressing is lumpy and luscious.
Lasagna, Parms & Steaks
Predictably, some of the mainstay items on Anthony’s permanent menu landed there by demand. They started out as specials, but when people started calling ahead — repeatedly — to ask if the evening’s menu offered, say, Costelette con Salsa di Funghi, the decision was quickly made to add that and other favorites. (Salvatore is a man devoted to food: he gives customers what they long for.) This stuffed veal platter is a “total package” of flavor, as it’s stuffed with prosciutto, Asiago, and asparagus, then sautéed in a creamy porcini mushroom sauce.
Homemade Meat and Cheese Lasagna, Veal Parmigiana, and Chicken alla Anthony (Parmigiana) are beloved classics, of course. In many dishes, the subtly wonderful tomato sauce deserves huge credit.
Anthony’s also excels in filet mignon offerings, from Gorgonzola to Granchio (lump crab). The steaks are gorgeous, from fine cuts of beef. Spiciest of these is a serious black pepper masterpiece, Pepe Nero Filet, which is pan-seared and crusted with black pepper, then rises like a dark, lovely island in a shallow sea of peppery cream. Unforgettable.
Raves for Ravioli
To aim at full Italy — sauce, pasta, cheese, seasoned beef — what a no-brainer to jump straight into Chef Victor’s large-sized Homemade Cheese Ravioli with meatballs. The ravioli rounds clearly dominate the plate, as well they should, providing a textural nirvana that only occurs when you bite into soft cheese enfolded within pasta pockets cooked until just-lightly-chewy. Put simply, they’re loaded with integrity. The meatballs are nicely sized and hold a consistency that is at once delicate and a bit crumbly yet tightly woven, and deliciously worth writing home about.
Espresso pairs well with any one of numerous desserts hand-chosen by Salvatore. If the tray holds a Limoncello Mascarpone Cheesecake, dive in. Cloudlike and fluffy with white chocolate shavings atop, this lemony-soaked vanilla cake is pure heaven.
Anthony's Trattoria
900 Byram St., Reading
610.370.2822
Hours:
Mon-Sat: 11am-10pm
Sun: Noon-10pm
