Ahi Tuna, Creamy Dijon Chicken paired with Governo wine, and broiled Sea Bass Piccata on a bed of vegetable risotto…it’s not what you might expect when you walk into Mimmo's Italian Restaurant in Reading. But these dishes are the chef’s delight on just one Friday night at Mimmo’s, where — of course — diners also reveled in happy mounds of spaghetti and fat ziti painted with lush red tomato sauce (Italian “gravy” made from a family recipe); delicately crusted bruschetta loaded with melted mozzarella, just-picked basil, diced tomatoes that deliver a gentle zip; and no less than three new soups made fresh that morning. This particular day featured Italian Wedding, Chicken Pot Pie, and Boston Clam Chowder; on Tuesdays, expect to see Pasta Fagiola.
There’s definitely a lot more to Mimmo’s than meets the eye. As you first walk in, there is indeed a busy pizzeria, takeout area, and dining room — but when you open another door, you enter yet another dining room, end to end with cozy booths and beautifully hand-painted wall murals of Italian vineyards and fields and sea. But that’s not all by any means. A third entryway brings you into a huge banquet room and bar area, large enough to hold a 130-person dining reception for weddings, communions, baptisms or birthday parties both big and small. Of course, there’s a patio area and a waterfall fountain, just for good measure and to complete the homage to Italy. This most recently built expansion of Mimmo’s has been a dream of the owners for years, attest Domenico (nicknamed “Mimmo”) and Lucy Brutto. As 6pm approaches, the tables fill up fast and furiously.
Everywhere, it seems, servers are taking orders and pouring wine from an impressively enticing wine list; they’re balancing trays filled to groaning with calamari, mussels and clams, or steaming hot plates of homemade ravioli and linguini, and basically everything you’ve come to expect and love in hearty Italian food. The aromas of long-cooked tomato sauce, roasted peppers, garlic, basil, oregano, pure olive oil all awaken the senses, inviting patrons to explore a very full menu from pizza (both red and white) to tiramisu.
Labor of Love
“We work seven days a week,” says Lucy. Her husband smiles. Clearly, the restaurant is their life. And it’s been that way for 20 years. (When you go, do ask them to tell you the stories behind those wall murals — for family and homeland play starring roles.)
“Each week we sit down with our chefs and decide on specials. We put so much effort into our featured specials,” Lucy says, “and we have lots of repeat customers, especially with certain items on the menu, like the Chicken Parmesan. They know how large the portions are and there’s always a takeout box, so you can have another meal after you leave.”
Both Lucy and Mimmo are hands-on hosts, walking from table to table, exchanging greetings, stopping to chat. There’s hand-shaking and back-patting, inquiries about the family and work. The wall décor, tables and atmosphere contain quiet touches of elegance — even lovely wine glasses embossed with “Mimmo’s.”
Homemade Sangria, Ravioli
“Freshness matters,” says Mimmo, passionately. He comes from Calabria; Lucy hails from the Abruzzi region. “Fresh ingredients. That’s the difference. Everything we serve is fresh.” The big, fluffy bread-rolls with their flaky golden crusts are enhanced by what tastes like the freshest butter on earth; the Sangria, made by Lucy herself, is fruity with apple and orange, highly refreshing. Most everything is made onsite, and tailored to personal preference. Gluten-free pasta is available as well.
The hearty Steak Over Pasta (try it with linguini) delivers a half-pound of chipped beef, served with an ample pile of pasta and luscious marinara sauce. Manicotti, Lobster Ravioli and Shrimp Scampi stuffed with Crabmeat are all favorites with the crowd. The Chicken Parmesan is classically perfect. Lightly breaded, tender, thin-sliced chicken, blessed by a bright tomato sauce — it’s a winner.
The Old-World traditional Lasagna is not to be missed. Multiple textures mingle in an outstanding ratio and well-assembled combination — creamy-soft ricotta plus beefy bites mixed with al dente waves of noodles all topped by a thinly melted layer of cheese and that oh-so-satisfying sauce, just enough garlic.
Meals come with a Caesar or tossed salad; the latter is a meal-in-itself Garden Salad of fresh-cut cucumbers, greens, tomatoes, shaved Parmesan and more, made piquant with a robust Balsamic House Dressing.
Finally, don’t leave without relaxing over a steamy Cappuccino and Mimmo’s over-the-top, unforgettably yummy cannoli trimmed with chocolate. Oh, yes — you can get a take-out box for that, too.
By Marian Frances Wolbers | Photos by Heidi Reuter
