In this month of hearts, why not head for Italy to celebrate? Italy spells romance, and a break from the craziness of the world. It promises an intimate atmosphere with conversation and background music, tables groaning with sumptuous platters, luscious wine, and all the flavors and smells of mouth-watering cheeses, herbs, olive oil, antipasto, lovingly prepared meats, soups, vegetables…
It’s easier than you think, ever since Salute Ristorante Italiano opened its doors along Route 422 (in the hillside mall near Fecera’s in Sinking Spring). In Salute’s kitchen, you’re likely to hear more Italian spoken than English, as owner Giovanni Giannini is over-the-top passionately committed to providing the most deliciously authentic food possible. He brings in professional chefs trained in the Culinary Institutes of both Northern and Southern Italy. The end result, Giovanni explains, is that his menu and recipes can continue to evolve and deepen, spurred by originality and fresh culinary expertise.
For whatever lucky reason, Berks County now boasts a hearty share of fine Italian dining establishments to choose from, and this fairly recent newcomer has definitely been making waves. It’s the kind of place with solid word-of-mouth appeal: go for one meal and that magic word — Salute — becomes a fountain of gushing foodie conversation tomorrow.
The Joys of Complex
Salute’s cozy atmosphere — with a full bar, its combination of tables and booths, and its very mood — says, “Relax. Savor. Enjoy yourself.” Start with Mangiatorella fine water from Calabria as you ponder the drink menu, which features a huge selection of creative cocktails, including Manhattans and martinis. The Salutini is made with Hendrick’s Gin, St. Germain (elderflower liqueur), fresh cucumber and lime, simple syrup and basil; an Espresso Martini contains Van Gogh Double Espresso Vodka, Kahlua and fresh espresso topped with Bailey’s Irish Cream.
Or choose from the many wines (more than 500 bottles), perhaps the smooth Gini Chianti? Then get straight to an appetizer that stuns in its simplicity and complexity: Eggplant Caponata. The ingredients are simple. The flavor experience is incredibly complex. It’s a satisfying combination of savory (the capers and green olives) with simple eggplant, carrots and red peppers, recalling home gardens and olive groves. The eggplant is topped with a sweet and sour Nonna sauce and almond sprinkles and served with a plate of toasty crisp breads, perfectly thin for scooping and adding a separate taste-texture component to the dish.
The Fried Breaded Mozzarella comes not in sticks, but in small rectangles for a generous mouthful of fresh mozzarella (homemade), and is served with a gentle, good marinara, salad greens, olive oil and balsamic.
Of course, on the path to amazing main courses there is bread. The warm, homemade twisted rolls can be dipped in a luminously light marinara sauce or, better yet, Salute’s obsessively addictive Almond Pesto Sauce. It’s a flavor power punch that can cause swooning or at least have you pondering how to lick the bowl and not have anyone see you.
Unique Treats, from Mushrooms to Veal
Salute knows and loves mushrooms, so if Mushroom Soup is a soup du jour, definitely order a bowl. Then indulge in Truffle Nest Pasta, a unique specialty of the house. This rich, creamy, crazy-good entrée consists of stylishly constructed “pasta nests” stuffed with truffles and porcini mushrooms. A Parmesan shell complements this gourmet triumph, finishing up each bite of pasta with a superbly toasted-cheese melt in your mouth.
In the mood for classics like lasagna, fish, chicken or beef? Get ready to experience fine versions of those favorites. The Veal Cutlet Parmesan is so tender it cuts with a fork. Accompanying it are baked ziti noodles, in a smart portion size that doesn’t dominate or leave you wanting.
Clouds of Flavor
For gnocchi that are lighter than light, this is the place to go. Salute Ristorante serves up little clouds of flavor with variations on the theme. “Our gnocchi melts in your mouth,” claims the server (Tom). And he’s right. The Gnocchi with Shrimp and Eggplant entrée is remarkable not only for its floating texture but for its dynamic flavor, emboldened by an earthy tannish-red sauce whose delicate herbs infuse the olfactory senses on arrival at table; a tall basil leaf overlooks the large, juicy grilled shrimp and cuts of sweet eggplant.
At last, it’s time for coffee and dessert. Light cheesecake with raspberries? Cannoli? Tiramisu? Whatever your pleasure. The European palate-pleaser Chocolate Crème Torte satisfies with fresh-shaved orange atop a dense interior of deep chocolate, covered by hardened candied edges of caramel.
A word to the wise: Giovanni suggests making reservations in advance. His main goal: “We want people to come in here and have an experience.” That’s not just a goal; it’s a promise.
By Marian Frances Wolbers | Photos by Heidi Reuter
