Restaurateur George Zeppos had one big goal in mind when he opened his newest dining destination. It’s his way of paying homage to — and sharing — one of the world’s finest cuisines, by creating a European vibe in “a restaurant where you feel like you are in Greece, embracing the ethos of Athens [ethos meaning the distinguishing character of his family’s home country].” If you’ve ever enjoyed travel in Greece, Telia will bring you back to that openness and delight. Every aspect of their menu matters, right down to the closest details of spices, marinades and styles of baking and preparing foods.
“When you’re in Greece,” says Zeppos, “you commonly hear people say, ‘Make it telia.’” (He pronounces Telia almost like most Americans would say “tell ya.”) Translating, this earnest owner conveys that the phrase means “Make it perfect!” which is a way of affirming the sense of joy and appreciation of life that Greeks feel. “It’s to tell you life is perfect,” says Zeppos, smiling. “Telia is inspired by our lands, our seas, the herbs from the Laconia region…the Lamb Shank, for example, is made like my grandfather’s grandfather did. We want a fun atmosphere here because, after all, you’re company!”
Jump into Mediterranean Flavors
Being alive Greek-style is easy. Start with one of Telia’s many elegant wine options or signature cocktails. A heavenly Ouzo Mojito cocktail delivers bright, refreshing sensations of licorice and mint: super cool and refreshing. It’s concocted with Diplomatico Planas aged white rum, ouzo, fresh lime and mint. The olive bread features an OldWorld artisanal crust, deliciously topped with signature Greek herbs and kalamata olives baked right in, excellent for dipping in oil. Crunchy on the outside, textured inside, this table bread is specially baked for Telia daily.
The salty-sweet Baked Feta appetizer is a luscious, generous portion of cheese wrapped in flaky filo, dotted with sesame seeds and drizzled with organic honey, building anticipation for the whole meal. The Loukaniko layers chargrilled, tangy sausage chunks over fried spinach for a “just right” spiciness plus citrusy orange zest and tyrokafteri (roasted red peppers, feta, olive oil sauce).
From Calamari to Octopodi, charcuterie to stove-top meatballs called Keftedes, the appetizer list is mouthwateringly diverse. Pikilia lets diners choose three of six spreads to sample with delectable pita points: tzatziki wakes the palette with clean, sharply outlined taste; hummus flips the usual hummus experience — the taste is subtle and smooth, even while the texture is substantial and hearty; fava split pea looks chunky, but is richly memorable with olive oil capers and sweet onion.
Land- And Sea-Inspired Entrees
In addition to Greek entrees like Lamb Chops and Lamb Shank Yvetsi, the ever-popular goldenbrown Spanakopita (spinach pie) originates from the Zeppos family kitchen. Laconia Chop pleases with grilled prime veal in a cozy marinade of thyme, olive oil, butter and garlic.
Scallops are seared perfectly, caramelized on the outside, succulent on the inside, served over orzo subtly coated with feta and garnished with crisp and tasty flecks of fried spinach and a profusion of kalamata olives. This entrée is an unforgettable meeting of texture and flavor with a hint of lemon joined by garlic and oregano in the accompanying ladolemono sauce.
Chilean Sea Bass achieves the epitome of elegance and culinary care. Seared and then served over steamed squash, the fish is set off by a velvety spring-green basil crème sauce. The taste is stupendous. The tender, pure white bass pulls apart sweetly in large petal-like pieces, and because it’s also delicately charred on top, the paradoxical complexity feels utterly natural. The basil never overpowers; it’s gentle and yummy.
Filet Telia is a center-cut steak served on a bed of sauteed kalamata olives and sprinkled with crumbled feta, joined by two large lemon arcs. The beef bursts with deeply satisfying flavor, cooked precisely to order. Accompaniments are al dente asparagus spears and herbed lemon potato wedges that may remind you of the ones grandmothers cooked long ago, the kind that fairly melt in your mouth.
Desserts: “The Kiss at the End of the Night”
Telia’s desserts vary daily — and, yes, there’s always baklava or baklava cheesecake — but every dessert choice is original and totally wonderful, thanks to Lauren Flichman, the G.M., whose personal passion is making pastries. “Let’s face it. The dessert is the kiss at the end of the night,” she says, beaming.
Paired with a robust, smooth cup of caf or decaf, the Blueberry-Lemon Tiramisu is made with ladyfingers bathing in a nonalcoholic limoncello, plus homemade blueberry jam and mascarpone cream layers in the middle. Divine…a fruit-luscious meshing of flavors.
Telia’s Pistachio Ice Cream is an amazing transformation of ice cream into pistachio: This sweet ’n pretty, rounded scoop of nuttiness holds the texture of pistachios that have been well crushed to near oblivion. The result? A joyful, nutty flavor front and center.
400 N. Park Rd., Wyomissing | 484.577.4499 | teliagreek.com
