On their most recent trip back to Thailand, co-owners and chefs Nicky and Patti brought something very special back to their classy little restaurant on Penn Avenue in West Reading — a way to serve up a delicately flavored, gorgeous blue rice made from the Butterfly Pea Flower.
“In the past, only royal people ate this,” explains Nicky, smiling. Patti points to a card on the table, describing the astonishing health benefits of this blue beauty: its anti-tumor and anti-cancer abilities, stress-reducing capacities, and naturally soothing effects on the eyes. To the mouth, it’s light and airy, not as glutinously sticky as Sticky Rice — which is a regular on the menu. And it joins a select group of other revered rice types that accompany dishes like Panang Curry, Seared Salmon Red Curry, Green Curry, and Shrimp in Claypot.
Of course, Pad Thai, made of thin rice noodles, is a favorite on the menu, allowing your choice of meat, tofu (bean curd), egg, chives, bean sprouts and ground peanuts. Pad Basil is traditional and spicy in its caramelized garlic and fresh basil.
For authenticity, gourmet preparation, and attention to every tiny detail, you’d have to travel many, many miles to match Rice Modern Thai restaurant. Nicky credits his mother, a major influence in his cooking.
Vibrant Starters
Thai Iced Tea is like nothing you’ve ever tasted before, even somewhat smoky to the palate. A robust tea brewed from black tea grown in Thailand, it holds a subtly sweet overlay. The interaction of milk and sugar with the tea gives this beverage a vibrant orange hue.
For a fabulous appetizer, order the Thai Spring Rolls, beautifully presented, standing upright in a wire basket with a handle. Garnished with carrot strings, these spring rolls have a crisp outer shell and contain miniature balls of chicken and rice vermicelli as a foundation for intermixed vegetables. The sweet chili dipping sauce provides a hearty counterbalance.
Thai Vegetable Dumplings (vegetarian and gluten-free) are generously filled, pastry-looking dumplings that feature a lusciously thin layer of dough encasing delicately flavored chive and — maybe — a tinge of garlic as an accent. The dipping sauce balances fruitiness with a hint of soy, a sweetness that goes wonderfully with the chive. Thin curls of carrot, almost floating on top, serve as garnish.
Nicky introduces Rice’s Thai Beef Jerky dish as “something typically served as street food in Thailand,” though it’s also available in restaurants. Though our American experience of jerky is as something dry and challenging to chew, this pan-fried version is succulent, tender and comparable to barbecue. The marinade is both spicy and sweet. It is served with a warm scoop of sticky rice plus tamarind sauce with salty tones, adding even more pizzazz.
Panang Curry — Creamy, Tangy, Sweet
Nicky and Patti present their Panang Curry entree with a humble flourish, saying, “We made it exactly as we make it for ourselves.” It is absolutely, addictively, ridiculously delicious. In the beautifully soft, mellifluous, salmon-colored sauce are chicken, broccoli, green beans, basil, coconut milk and carrots. Described as medium-spiced (though one can choose levels of heat), this curry is deceptively smooth and mild at first spoonfuls, and then the heat builds and warms. Choose two types of rice, perhaps the long-grained jasmine and the black sticky rice, with its almost roasted taste, as the extra flavor complements the savory-sweet curry in texture, taste and color.
Pineapple Fried Rice can be made vegetarian or meaty — it’s your choice. Dramatically presented in a fresh pineapple half cut length-wise, this filling dish can be built on a base of riceberry rice, a delectable and strikingly-flavored crunchy rice that is a far cry from the bland and neutral white rice many Americans are accustomed to. Broccoli, carrots, pineapple, cashews and tofu (or meat) yield layers of flavor.
Aptly named, Thai Holy Basil Duck deserves a “Wow!” award for taste. The thinly sliced duck, locally sourced from a farm in Hamburg, is garnished with a whole carrot and the most tender sprigs of asparagus; even the carrot bursts with marinated flavor on the outside while preserving the fresh intense taste of essential carrot on the inside — a great contrast. Basil serves both as garnish and ingredient, with leaves cooked in tandem with the fowl, which rests on king oyster mushroom. The strong presence of basil balances the succulent marinade infusing the meat. A true treat!
Less Is More (Yummy)
Coconut Cup, a teeny little dessert delicacy, is served in a hot, low bowl. Grated and toasted coconut shavings sit on top of coconut cream, which in turn sits on top of a rice pudding. It is simultaneously a palate-cleanser and a soul-satisfying clincher to the meal.
Nicest of all: Eating here leaves you feeling grateful, like you’ve traveled the world thanks to these amazing chefs—in the most pleasant, refined way possible.
