Historically, Berks County has never been a slacker when it comes to brewing and enjoying great beers. There have been lulls, to be sure, and some old-timey beers have fallen off the modern map. Most recently, a cool new beer hall hit the scene when Kyle Neuheimer’s big dream came true — a “build-it-and-they-will-come” idea, with two things in mind: making great beer and finding a perfect place to serve it — someplace with “architectural and historical significance.”
Let’s talk location. A quick look around Berks these days suggests that some of the non-mainstream, local neighborhoods are finally reaping the rewards of forward-thinking entrepreneurs with a keen eye on trends in food and drink.
In Millmont, this is epitomized by the vision, initiative, and sheer excellence exhibited in the Oakbrook Fire Company’s building refurbishment. More than a transformation, it’s a preservation, a labor of love, which is what can make the difference between a good business and a smart, interesting, lasting business. Neuheimer built it; now they’re coming.
Celebrate Oktoberfest!
What better place to toast fall than in a beer hall with a wide open bay in a 1936-era fire company? Even the pine tables and benches, made by a Gilbertsville craftsman, suggest Oktoberfest. Neuheimer, who spent 30 years in the IT field in Portland, Oregon (“It’s where I got the bug for doing craft beer.”), returned to his roots when seeking the perfect locale. “I wanted a neighborhood. And this was the first truly diverse neighborhood in Reading. When I found this building, I knew this was it. But it was in jeopardy of being knocked down, so I spent three years making sure that didn’t happen.”
In March 2016, Neuheimer officially opened the Park Avenue Brewery and Brew Hall, whose walls are adorned with Oakbrook memorabilia. “People donate items nearly every week,” says this enthusiastic brewmaster. “The family that donated the uniform said something we hear all the time — ‘Nobody’s seeing it in our closet.’ Clearly, people have a lot of nostalgia about this place.” The Berks History Center also gave lots of leads.
Flights with Polly and the Gang
Suggestion: Try a flight of drafts to figure out which you love most.
Polly’s Pale Ale is inspired by the fire station’s famous parrot, who rode on the bell of the pickup and whose distinctive visage appears in a large photo above the front bar where you place your order. This American-style pale ale is hoppy but not too hoppy, balanced and mild with a refined bitter afterglow that circles inside your mouth like a gorgeous juice.
The creation of the 1938 Special, an old-fashioned brown ale, was influenced by an old recipe. British-style, where malt features more prominently than hops, it’s steely and smart. “It’s my wife’s favorite,” says Neuheimer, smiling.
Smokey the Dog is a seductively delicious smoked porter, made with 40 percent smoked malt. “That smoked flavor makes it all the way to the glass,” says Neuheimer. It perfectly complements Muddy’s Texas Beef Brisket and Smoked Pulled Pork.
Oakbrook IPA is pungent, citrine, lightly floral in scent and flavor, and uber-smooth going down. Extremely popular with customers, it partners with practically anything, particularly grilled sausages.
Gearmasher is a drier IPA, as hoppy as you’d expect, a straight-shooting, slog-it-down brew. One might say it’s got the strongest biceps in the gym.
The Oakbrook Seasonal in summer is a refreshingly crisp American wheat drink, characterized by an almost lemony finish.
By far the craziest, most engaging brew of all is an invention grapefruit lovers will absolutely go ape over: The Venerable Parrot, another nod to the famous Polly. This stellar IPA is fermented with grapefruit puree and served with a sporty sprig of rosemary, ramping up the gustatory experience.
Nosh from Local Bests
Appetizers and snacks feature Bell Alley Soft Pretzels, a culinary cheer for a 75-year-old invention, while Dieffenbach’s Kettle Chips serve on potato chip duty.
The Oakbrook Pork Nachos or Vegetarian Nachos contain variation in each bite with a nice heat to the salsa. Chopped onions and olives, diced tomatoes, scattered black beans, corn, cilantro, and a game-changing medley of fresh-chopped red, green, and yellow peppers provide a taste punch and mouth crunch to the corn chips. The lovely, messy dish is drizzled with melted cheese and served with sour cream for cooling down.
Of the savory sausage sandwiches, it’s hard to beat the Polish Boy or Polish Girl. Both are big, messy, juicy, smoked-sausage sandwiches. The hearth-flavored kielbasa (from Stolzfus in Lancaster) — with its grilled, crunchy exterior and soft interior, — joins up with barbecue sauce, fried onion strings and tangy coleslaw. The Polish Girl kicks with a layer of Muddy’s beef brisket.
Vegetarians need not cry in their beer, though: there’s a tasty Vegan Kielbasa option as well.
Oakbrook Brewing Company 628 Park Avenue, Reading 484.755.5289. facebook.com/OakbrookBrew
By Marian Frances Wolbers | Photos by Heidi Reuter
