The 125,000-square-foot entertainment complex known as The Works in Wyomissing is a mecca for family fun and togetherness. Laser tag, arcades, climbing structures and assorted activities regularly ensure that the enormous parking lot is full of cars, but the visionaries who uplifted, financed and transformed this high-ceilinged, heavy-duty machine factory dating back to the days of the knitting mills were thinking not only about having a blast. They were thinking about delicious food, too. In a big way.
To make sure everyone’s well fed and has his thirst slaked, they created The Works Restaurant as the natural place to go for made-from-scratch pizza and entrées that appeal to diners of all ages.
Mirror Side: Fine Dining
On the mirror side of that venue, however, is an entirely different venue, complete with posh booths, high and low tables for couples and small groups, and a long, wraparound bar with a gray stone fireplace. Tall, windowed doors open up to let the early summer air waft through. Simply named Building 24 Kitchen and Bar, this is an exquisitely comfortable, upscale dining establishment featuring creations by Executive Chef Ryan McQuillan, former head chef of the renowned Talula’s Table in Kennett Square. And clearly, just as everyone else has a great time in this huge complex, Chef is definitely having high-level fun — with food.
As you walk in from the front entrance, on a gargantuan blackboard stretching up toward historic metal beams is a hand-drawn list (big letters!) of every drink and craft beer special for the night.
From the outset, attentive servers run down the list of specials for the evening, demonstrating a strong seasonal focus. Perhaps there’s black sea bass, pan-seared salmon, or — as was the case recently — a delicate set of lamb cannelloni in a savory sauce. Whatever’s in season, ripe and readiest will find its way onto the menu. All the pasta is made in-house.
Kimchi Noodles, Pimento Mac ’n Cheese & Other Complex Delights
The menu lists small plates, entrees, sides and desserts; soups and salads are seasonal. The focus on healthy ingredients and a worldly range of foodstuffs is impressive. The Brussels sprouts, for example, with their charred, crispy edges and maple-soy-campfire notes are a textural flavor fest with walnuts, raisins and fresh-grated Parmesan. There’s a pasta option of Parisian Gnocchi, created with Wild Mushroom Ragu, Swiss Chard and Pine Nut Gremolata.
A lovely, very different, cheese-lovers’ small plate called Pimento Mac & Cheese arrives bubbly at the table in a smallish, low, cast-iron skillet that mimics, in feeling, the heavy-metaled origins of this lovingly preserved factory. Super-rich and chewy, the pasta is aromatic and ivory-light in color, topped with a sprinkling of tangy greens. Each bite reveals an undercurrent of red peppers tying the whole concoction together in a sweetly hot fire.
A large white bowl holds dynamic Kimchi Noodles, a unique relationship wherein wide, flat noodles proffer a passionate bow toward that long-time classic Korean blockbuster — the throat-throbbing, orange-red, pickled-cabbage condiment called kimchi (kimchee). Your job, as diner, is to mingle the complex and engaging ingredients assembled, including gochujan and an Asian-style fresh egg yolk resting in the center, and then swoop that pasta up to chew — letting juices slip over your teeth, lifting noodle after noodle as a magical blending evolves. Chef Ryan’s lusciously spicy sauce becomes more compelling with each bite. It’s a distinctively joyous experience, very filling.
14-Ounce New York Strip au Poivre
Rubbing beef au poivre is nothing new in the world of cooking, but the target proportions of Szechuan and black pepper are simply perfect in this steak. The steak is thoughtfully placed on a whisper-soft, silky futon of pureed potatoes strewn lightly with baby spinach leaves, so the greens naturally stay warm and supple. On top, tender shallots roll translucently along the charred edges of the steak, inviting knife and fork to slice in, to meld sweet-tart onion juices with the beef. A beverage to enjoy with this: Try the deep red cheeks and cherry-plum tones of Napa’s Big Smooth Cabernet Sauvignon — mwah!
Newest on the menu is the whimsically named Pig Mac Burger — a serious burger with ground pork and bacon, so stacked with accoutrements that you’ll need both hands and every finger activated to push it into your salivating mouth. Tangy Cheddar-mustard-cheese and juicy veggies deliciously enable the sandwich explosion. Garlic-Parmesan crispy fries (Pommes Frites) complement this “I-dare-you” burger; they’re superbly seasoned all on their own, but when dipped in Chef Ryan’s tart lemon dip, wow. Scrumptious and satisfying, eminently shareable.
The Chocolate Tour
“Chocolatour” is such a clever way to justify having three different chocolate desserts, with different flavors and textures, in one final indulgence. (Brilliant.) Let your mouth tour happily from the Tarte, a fudgy-cakey bar; to the Pots de Creme filled with barely bitter, custardy richness; and then to the oval dish encasing warm Sponge Cake. Or…Strawberry Shortcake?
Building 24 Kitchen & Bar
1115 Bern Rd., Wyomissing
610.375.2700
Kitchen Dinner Hours:
Mon-Sat: 4-10pm
Closed Sundays
