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Home Food & Drink Restaurant Profiles

Willoughby’s on Park

Berks County Living by Berks County Living
November 28, 2016
in Restaurant Profiles
Willoughby’s on Park

An exquisite dinner experience — that is what Willoughby’s on Park is focused on exclusively, offering fine steaks, seafood and more mouth-watering entrees. Clearly, this is a special place to go for a special occasion: a holiday party, a year-end toast to a great business year, or an unforgettable date night (the romantic atmosphere is perfect for popping the big question). But relax: there is no need to wear a tux or gown. It’s as fancy or casual as you care to make it. And it’s not just for adult patrons, as evidenced by the three-course children’s menu, a salute to the youngest loved ones in the family.

The brainchild of restaurateur George Zeppos, this newest dining destination emerged primarily because this foodie entrepreneur was keen on setting the bar higher, to make a pronouncement about dining itself. “Our vision for Willoughby’s on Park was simply this: to provide energetic elegance, an exceptional dining experience, where you could truly enjoy a night out, time spent with others, feeling good,” he says.

The totally renovated, TV-free space is directly geared to conversing, laughing, listening and appreciating each other’s company. Every décor detail supports a highly hospitable mood, as elements of fabric, stone, earth tones and candlelight soften seamlessly together, from the zinc tabletop in a private party room to the forest-muted, sensuous upholstery in the main dining area.

“We wanted an urban feel, mixing modern cuisine with traditional fine dining.” Mission — and vision — accomplished, Mr. Zeppos.

Tender, Unique Steaks

With Executive Chef Devon Schwartz at the helm, the menu boasts a carefully chosen variety of top-shelf beefsteaks, including a super-juicy Dry-aged Bone-in Ribeye, 20 ounces of USDA Prime; a classy Kobe Wagyu Tomahawk, 28 to 30 ounces of Kobe Bone-in Ribeye; and a Dry-Aged Kansas City Bone-in Strip, along with traditional Filet Mignon, Porterhouse, and Prime Delmonico Ribeye. Offering bone-in cuts is key to maintaining beef’s high flavor, but it’s uncommon (locally, at least) to find so many types.

The 12-ounce Bone-in Filet of USDA Black Angus Tenderloin melts in your mouth with outrageous tenderness. It’s an impossibly terrific, two-inch thick steak. Add Gorgonzola Cream on top for even deeper richness and you’ve entered beef heaven. Other “Steak Enhancements” to choose from are Au Poivre, Wild Mushroom Demi Glace, House Béarnaise, Kona Coffee Rub and Mission Fig Cabernet Reduction.

Wine, Martinis, Starters & Soups

There’s no sense in having an extraordinary menu without making sure the bar matches up. And it does. The “W” is one of eight martini choices, dryly concocted with Grey Goose vodka, served up with crumbled-bleu-cheese-stuffed olives. Yum. The Signature Cocktails list has something to please everyone, including a few drinks notoriously tough to get right, but judging by their perfect Old-Fashioned, diners can order with confidence.

A superior wine list supports every food pairing. “We want people to experience different wines,” Zeppos says, “so we’ve got wines from $30 to $300 a bottle.”

The cold bar features Fresh Oysters on the Half-shell, Tuna Tartare and more, while starter dishes range from Lamb Lollipops to Wasabi Thai Calamari and Beef Carpaccio. The Mozzarella Prosciutto is stunningly delish, served warm. It’s got the prosciutto ham wrapped around a soft, melty cheese explosion, all drizzled with sweet-sour balsamic glaze and paired with bite-sized “blistered” cherry tomatoes, atop bitter greens to contrast with the salty meat.

Poached Maine lobsters in sherry sauce are the basis for an undeniably rich Lobster Bisque; another standard on the menu is French Onion Soup, simply to die for, hands down a “best of show” in the category.

Salad Classics, Stylish Sides

In keeping with modern moves on classic themes, Willoughby’s on Park offers a Grilled Caesar seasoned with white wine, anchovies and shaved Parmesan. The Arugula Salad contains piquant greens that mellow in the wake of red poached pears, which sweetly coax generous flavor out of crumbly goat cheese snuggled into the nooks and crannies of this marvelous dish. It’s all tossed in tangy white wine balsamic vinaigrette.

Baked Mac ’n Cheese is one of numerous amazing sides, absurdly luscious in its combination of mascarpone, Asiago, mozzarella, aged Provolone, and Chef’s sly insistence on Cabot Cheddar and hints of sage.

Seafood Gems 

Choosing fish or shellfish is serious business: Should you get the Sashimi-Grade Tuna? Or Twin Lobsters with Parmesan Chive Risotto? Chef’s special Lump Crab Cake with Béarnaise and Sweet Potato Puree calls like a siren…

The soft, smooth Chilean Sea Bass is a full-flavored study in contrasts, tastes and textures thanks to red pepper coulis (the thin sauce also contains quinoa and spinach) and a well-anchored bed of nubby, tri-colored Israeli couscous.

Sweet Dreams

Lingering long enough for an aperitif or dynamic espresso? Go for the healthy, GMO-free Carrot Cake or get wild — indulge in the Peanut Butter Bomb Explosion. Traditionalists will love Chef’s own Vanilla Crème Brulee garnished with ripe strawberry and dimpled blackberry.

By Marian Frances Wolbers | Photos by Heidi Reuter

Tags: Berks County LivingBerks County Living December 2016Berks Issue Page DepartmentsDining List FeatureDining OutFoodGalleryHomepage
Berks County Living

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