When Berks County Living first covered Salute in 2016, the consummate restaurateur and host Giovanni Giannotti had set out on a path to bring 100 percent authentic Italian cuisine to this region. Per his vision, he was already inviting Italian chefs to contribute, learn and share their culinary talents in his kitchen; he delighted in introducing them to the U.S. while simultaneously introducing their regional specialties to patrons. Eight years and a worldwide pandemic later, Salute has proven its staying power, not just surviving but thriving. Tables are full most nights, and now there are four Italian chefs cooking, with two more at his pizza business, Dante's 900.
When celebrating special occasions or the end of a long day, Berks Countians regularly think of Salute first. It’s fine dining one can count on, combining standard favorites mixed in with Italian specialties one is unlikely to encounter except in Southern, Central or Northern Italy. This year, says Jessica Giannotti, they’ve added more: “We’re authentic Italian, but we’re not just Italian food — we also have steaks, seafood and many other dishes.”
Giovanni still invites chefs to Berks County. “The chefs come here and cook each dish exactly as it’s made in the home country,” says Jessica.
Divine Genovese, Naples-style Eggplant, Scrumptious Bruschetta
The drinks are great, including well-chosen Chianti and other wines, but virtually everything from the bar satisfies. Their Rob Roy Italiano, served with a side pitcher, warms you all the way down.
If you’re lucky, Chef Benny from Marche (pronounced Mar’ kay), might visit your table to chat. According to Jessica, one of the most popular dishes he makes is Genovese, from Campagna. “The beef is cooked for hours, so it literally melts in your mouth,” she says. Chef Benny adds, “It’s eight or nine hours for the beef to get ready, and it ends up a bit sweet because for every pound of beef, I put in a LOT of white onions.”
Meat gets added to pasta called casarecce, short little “straws” or tubes with straight-line openings down one side and the other. Cheesy and meaty, this dish is satisfyingly chewy and meaty, addictively so.
Chef Benny also creates a special dish from Naples that comes in a cup containing thin-sliced eggplant fried (without breading), luxuriating in a rich baked tomato sauce. Chef Benny claims, “This is the real thing…and the sauce makes the difference!” For fullest flavor and savory effect, this pasta-less eggplant is oven-baked with fresh mozzarella and tangy Parmesan cheese, plus aromatic basil leaves. “Don’t use spoons,” Chef advises. “You eat it with a fork!” On the side: rectangles of baked bread chips for dipping and scooping. Truly a taste of heaven for Eggplant Parm lovers, the combo of acidic and mild, silky, chewy and crunchy reflect Chef Benny’s passion: “I like to play with the consistencies, with the textures.”
Salute’s Bruschetta appetizer has always been a must-order, and — as if it’s even possible — it’s even more amazing today. Chef explains they’re starting with Southern-style, crispy-firm, deep-toasted (charred) bread, and “it has to have a lot of tomatoes on it!” One swig of Chianti, then one chomp into Bruschetta, and the experience is instantly juicy beyond juicy, garden-light and crispy, as a rounded, gentle Balsamic vinegar kisses the chopped tomatoes, onions, peppery arugula and basil. What a crazily complex, textural treat! “We’re a little more oriented toward the Center and the South with this,” explains Chef Benny. “I like to use different flavors — sweet, bitter, salty — to make the perfect dish.”
Oh-So-Tender Ribeye and Marvelous Mediterranean Sea Bass
Steak lovers will swoon over Salute’s Ribeye. It’s impossible to tease out exactly what makes this entrée so darned delicious, but surely it’s that combination of prime-cut meat, somewhat charred, prepped with seasonings that serve to superbly amplify the beef flavor. This entrée may be paired with veggie sides, but consider setting your sights on Salute’s roasted, smashed and roasted-again potato. OMG yummy. Candied carrots top off this feast.
Naturally, Salute gives equal devotion to treasures from the sea, with an outstanding FlashFried Calamari and, on certain nights, an octopus dish that one diner remarked was “the best I’ve ever had — and I even had this in New Zealand!”
For an exquisite fish entrée, Jessica advises, “We have three different kinds of Branzino — so the customer can choose.” The Mediterranean Sea Bass is handsdown fabulous. The gorgeous white fish lifts easily onto your fork, having been topped with an herbaceous “non-breading” that hugs the bass itself. It’s simmered with cherry tomatoes, garlic, capers, white wine and Calabrese olives. For a side, extra-virgin olive oil and toasted garlic enliven bright-green broccolini.
The final act? Ask Jessica, whose mouthwatering desserts include Crème Brûlée, Chocolate Lava Cake, a delicately tart Limoncello Cheesecake and specialty cannoli.
4710 Penn Avenue, Reading 484.577.4833 | saluteristorante.com
