In March, a time when everyone gets a mad hankering for a taste of Ireland, Ganly’s Irish Pub in Sinking Spring packs a happy punch. Once you’ve tasted their fare though, don’t be surprised if Ganly’s becomes much more than just a St. Patty’s celebration for you. It’s a dining destination full of good times and uplifting spirit.
Fair prices and friendly, happy people definitely characterize this year-round restaurant and watering hole. Owners Dino and Kirsten DiMariano recently bought the business from Dino’s parents (who own Santino’s), renovated it, and are now dedicated to preserving Ganly’s stellar reputation as a comfy, welcoming spot. The handcrafted woodwork in the pub area is worth a close tour; it’s so beautiful. But let’s be totally honest about this restaurant’s main appeal: with Chef Brett Gross in command of the kitchen, the main reason to head here is the fabulous food.
For starters, allow the wait staff to guide you through a lengthy, diverse beer list, and consider trying a wonderful single-malt Scotch (10 varieties to select from!). A stein of Smithwick’s (pronounced “smid-iks”) draft from Dublin with an appetizer of Guinness Cheese Dip and Crostini is a match made at the end of the rainbow. Smithwick’s beer is somewhat fruity and super-smooth, with no bite, amber brown with a light head, and a perfect contrast to the warm, gooey, cheesy dip which is tan-pink in color — nice and salty — and contains tomato bites. The cheese grabs onto the char-baked naan (as crostini) for a melt-in-your-mouth experience.
The luscious appetizer list presents a hard choice, actually. The Donegal Fries also come with a pleasantly mild, warm, white cheese dip that coats the fries, releasing the herbs and Old Bay seasoning that enhance the potato flavor. But who can resist Ganly’s Short Rib Sliders? Clearly, one could make a full meal out of just the appetizers. Just make a mental note to go back on another day and try every single item on the app list over time, because you won’t want to miss the soups and stews, entrees (of course), and possibly the best salad Berks County has to offer.
A Sumptuous Pear-Arugula Salad
Ganly’s Roasted Pear and Blue Cheese Salad is absolutely nothing like other fruit ’n greens out there. This is a really magical combination of sweet and salty, crunchy and chewy. It features slices of pear (skin still on), crumbled blue cheese, tart cranberries, candied walnuts and a pile of the freshest, fluffiest, most aromatic baby arugula. The salad is tightly tossed together with a very light, non-vinegary dressing to enhance the myriad flavors and textures.
The Guinness Stew, from the soup menu, is a must for warming body, mind and soul, especially on St. Patrick’s Day. Savory, luxuriously tender beef, potatoes and veggies are enrobed in a thick, brown, just-tangy sauce. Each aromatic spoonful yields a tantalizing array of scents from the bay leaf, parsley, Guinness and thyme — for an infinitely rich and hearty culinary experience. This one’s a must-taste.
Diners also rave about the French Onion Soup, by cup or crock.
Entrees include Wexford Salmon (a Scottish fish) in a cider and dill cream sauce; Chicken Pot Pie, made Pennsylvania Dutch style; and Crab Cakes. Consider savoring Shepherd’s Pie, the humble dish of beef crumbles, peas and carrots, presented in a dauntingly large mug with handle, topped by colcannon (mashed potatoes) and gravy. It’s no-nonsense delicious.
More Treats from the Isles
Equally enticing is Ganly’s meatloaf, containing chopped green peppers and sautéed onions just like Mother used to make, so traditional in flavor it is. A perfect accompaniment are Sticky Carrots made with bourbon whiskey and ginger glaze, perhaps the kindest pairing of flavors ever invented to complement carrots.
Another side to check out: Red Cabbage Slaw. Unlike German slaw, this dish is served cold and is bright red, with a nice zing to it. Bite-sized pieces of cabbage are marinated in Chef’s special herbs.
Of course there are Fish and Chips, served with malt vinegar (or ketchup). So order another beer and get ready for this nostalgic entrée from the British Isles. Chef Brett uses fresh whitefish — often cod — for a flaky, deep-fried treat. He makes kettle chips too, from scratch — hot, homemade, light ’n crunchy potato chips which are head and shoulders tastier than any packaged chip. Having lived and worked in Nantucket on Cape Cod, Chef Brett brings this ocean-and-spuds dish full force to Berks.
On Tuesdays, you can always order Corned Beef and Cabbage, Irish-style.
Desserts vary nightly: warm Caramel Apple Pie especially tantalizes all senses; it’s loaded with just-tart apples, drizzled with caramel over cakey layers.
On March 17, look for the leprechaun! He’ll be there.
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by Marian Frances Wolbers | photos by Heidi Reuter
