In nostalgia-land, back in the 50s and 60s, the corner soda shop with its Cokes, burgers and fries was a fun, happening place to be. Imagine a step up from that — no, a giant step up — where modern sensibilities and 21st century tastes for gourmet burgers, extraordinary fries and exceptional drinks are indulged in a stunningly simple setting with the look and feel of a corner restaurant out of an Edward Hopper painting. Just a half-hour from downtown Reading is a retro-looking dining treasure whimsically named Joe’s Famous American Kitchen, where chef-owner John Zuwiala (who also owns Hauté Chocolate Café in West Reading) has created a high-class burgers-dogs-’n-shakes oasis. If the weather’s nice, diners may eat outside along the sidewalk, while inside are booths and an old-style counter decorated at the base with repeating images of Campbell’s red and white soup cans á la Warhol, and with tarragon-green chair pads on the tall stools.
Not to worry if your crowd is a mixed one: there are ample choices for hamburger lovers and vegetarians alike at Joe’s Famous American Kitchen. There’s a creative kids’ menu as well, and the grilled cheese sandwich rises to new gustatory heights under Zuwiala’s creative direction.
Shake It Up
Diners start off with a cleverly crafted list of all nonalcoholic drinks, including cold chocolates. The Iced Dark Chocolate with Raspberry is surprisingly refreshing and tastes just like a chocolate truffle; a glorious difference is that while a candy is soon gone, this tall drink can be happily nursed through the whole meal. (Lest you feel even an iota of guilt ordering a dinner drink that has the hallmarks of dessert food, you can keep telling yourself how smart your choice is, now that even doctors recognize chocolate’s heart-healthy effects.)
Also tempting are the Old-School Vanilla Milkshake, the Chocolate Malt, the Root Beer Float, and the Blood Orange and Pear Tisane Cool Aid — along with the typical Cherry Coke and similar soft drinks.
Who can resist the Frickles for a fun appetizer? The fried dill pickles are served with Sriracha ranch dip on the side so that soon after biting into the fried coating your teeth and mouth explode with the crunchy, dill-juicy insides. Frickles are unlike any other sensation on the map. The lobster bisque and lobster “cigars” are more elegant appetizers, of course: the cigars are tangily treated with lime, cilantro and jack cheese. But a truly fresh approach lies in the Toasted Sweets. Delightfully plated and sweet enough to be a dessert, this appetizer (or side) fans out long, straight-cut sweet potato fries, then tops them with char-melted marshmallows, lending a campfire cookout flavor to one of the most nutritious veggies out there (sweet potatoes are super-high in vitamin A, fiber, antioxidants and minerals). Toasted Sweets are a gooey, yummy way to twirl your fork around at the table and a must-share dish for the whole table to try.
A Must for Burger Fans
After all the fun with drinks and appetizers, burger eating shifts into a serious endeavor. The sheer size of these full-beef patties is daunting, but it’s the exquisite construction and perfect pairing of ingredients that set Joe’s apart from all the rest of the gourmet burgers out there.
Starting with the Baja Skirt: Surely the famous abstract painter Jackson Pollock was playing on the chef’s brain when this work of art emerged. The burger brings back sunny memories with its orange cheddar cheese all spattered and stiffened under the high hamburger bun, looking exactly like…a skirt. It looks like the sun itself is flaring out from the round edges of the soft but sturdy bun. Complementing the meat are crunchy pickled red onions, and a tomatillo-jalapeno, white-and-green flecked sauce with just enough tartness. A petticoat of lettuce at the base completes the picture. Beauty aside, however, the best part of this creation is simply how delicious the combination is and how juicy, messy and satisfying it is.
Another burger to crow about is the Guiness Melt, a hefty, full-bodied sandwich served between two huge slices of griddled marble rye bread. This melts in the mouth on contact, with its full load of whiskey-caramelized onions — silky smooth to the palate — teaming up well with the rye, the beef, and additional toppings of a zingy sweet-hot mustard and melted Guiness cheddar cheese. This huge sandwich pays homage to all the hardworking immigrants who came to America, with echoes of Ireland and Eastern Europe.
The Famous Amos entices as a coffee-seared burger with bacon jam and melted Gouda; a meat-free Faux-Lafel patty is made with garbanzo beans and yogurt dill sauce. Those are just four of 13 signature sandwiches, including a turkey burger and a pecan chicken breast. Since diners can also choose to build their own sandwiches, traditionalists will be just as sated as the most adventurous eaters.
A downhome gourmet Whoopie-Pie Cupcake dessert is both creamy and chocolaty, with just the right level of sweetness. But do consider a chocolate shot for one final parting sip of indulgence. The cup is edible!
JOE'S FAMOUS AMERICAN KITCHEN 608 Richmond Drive, Lancaster (4 miles this side of Lancaster’s downtown) | joesfamousak.com | 717.517.9172
BY MARIAN FRANCES WOLBERS | PHOTOS BY HEIDI REUTER
