“This is the only tequila bar in Berks County,” announces owner Mike Pullano (a familiar name — he also runs the World Famous Pike Café in Reading), “and we scouted out all the tequila bars between Philly and Harrisburg to put the best ideas together for a destination restaurant.” Of course, Pullano just had to go to Mexico, too — for research purposes, of course. (Imagine having to test tequila as part of your job!) The happy result is Shirley’s Café and Tequila Bar in Laureldale, a hop, skip and jump away from center-city Reading and close to Hampden Boulevard, Albright College and 5th Street Highway.
Featuring 120 different kinds of tequila, traditional café food (pizza, wings, burgers, wraps), an array of luscious Southwestern-style dishes, and a deck that’s open to summer breezes, Shirley’s has already established a loyal crowd simply by word of mouth. And no wonder: It’s a fun, friendly, lively retreat from the outside world, with the sort of menu and culinary chops that compel diners to return again and again to try something new.
Highly commendable is the bistro’s focus on freshness, from handmade salads to homemade dough for all the pizzas and strombolis. Apparently, the only bread that’s made off site is the hamburger buns.
Tequila is Top-Shelf
For tequila lovers, Shirley’s delivers. “My sisters and brothers are all tequila connoisseurs,” says Pullano. His wait staff members receive special lessons in the science of making tequila, which makes the visit impressively easy for those untrained in this liquor. Ordering a flight of tequila is one path to a fast education. It’s possible, for example, to sample the Corzo Silver (youngest, citrus-vanilla yum), Reposado (older, yummier), and finally Corzo Anejo (oldest and unforgettably vanilla-smooth — sort of the single-malt Scotch of tequila); each is served in a shot glass placed inside a silver horseshoe-type holder with an additional shot glass of a tomato-y concoction to cleanse the palate between sips. Pullano explains that the blue agave plant ages eight to 12 years to reach maturity and readiness for distilling.
It’s fairly recently that tequila has come into its own in the U.S., expanding in popularity and connoisseurship as people slow down to savor its slightly spicy notes. Judging by the conversations and laughter inside Shirley’s, there is obvious interest here.
A drink to try on a hot night is Shirley’s Traditional Paloma, made with El Jimador Reposado tequila, ruby red grapefruit juice, grapefruit soda and lime plus salt on the rim — light and summery. Another is the citrus-y Queen Mary margarita, which comes in a gigantic, pretty glass imported from Mexico. It’s refreshingly orange- and lime-flavored, zippy with a combination of Grand Marnier, agave nectar and Corazon Reposado tequila.
Just a Taste to Start
A perfect appetizer with these drinks is the Four-Cheese Quesadilla, made with a folded tortilla shell for double-stuffed effect. Customers rave about the Crispy Calamari, which co-mingles with Mediterranean flavors of onion, bell peppers, spinach and tomatoes in olive oil and lemon, heated up with chipotle sauce.
Shirley’s Fries work equally well as appetizers or a side. They’re long and fat, expertly fried (not greasy), seasoned with serrano-pepper sea salt, and interspersed with the char-grilled flavors of onions and peppers. The joy is in the dipping, though, when those commanding sensations marry up with a cumin-infused cream which drapes over the fry to impart a sweetly curried, cool sensation.
Pizza lovers will appreciate not only the light, oven-baked crunch of a super-fresh crust, but the incredible variety of pizza choices. For example: Imagine a pie that tastes like a really cheesy cheesesteak. That’s what you get with the Truffle Glazed Steak Pizza, loaded with ribeye and melted browned mozzarella, topped with caramelized onions and a deeply engaging, tart-sweet black truffle balsamic glaze.
The Vegetarianna is a rich white pizza with a garden on top, from A (asparagus) to Z (zucchini). The Santa Fe Chicken Ranch pleases those who love to mix chicken with the gentle tang of colby jack, serious cheddar, some smoky salted bacon and peppery Ranch dressing.
Mouthwatering Main Courses
Another house specialty is cazuelas. As an entrée, cazuelas are wholly satisfying, evocative of South-of-the-border ovens and hearty family meals. Basically, they are combinations of meat and vegetables long-cooked in an earthenware terracotta dish (or cazuela), which not only keeps the meal hot and the flavors melding right up until they land on the table, but lends a distinctive, attractive aroma that’s related to the very vessel in which it is cooked. Grilled flatbread is served as a side. Seafood lovers might try Tequila-Infused Shrimp Vera Cruz or El Cioppino (Little Neck clams, mussels, calamari, cod, shrimp and chorizo). The tender meat in the Pork Posole Stew falls right off the bone, as it joins with hominy and sugary white kernel corn; salsa verde enhances this dish. Slow-roasted Carnita-Style Chicken and Cannellini Beans with garlic-onion notes makes a heart-healthy meal positively mouth-watering.
by Marian Frances Wolbers | photos by HEIDI REUTER
