In the quaint little village of Stony Run, not far from Kempton and the mountainous splendor of Hawk Mountain, is a fabulous platter of Jaeger Schnitzel — with your name on it. Think of the pleasure: The air is cool and crisp, leaves turning all shades of glorious colors, and it’s Oktoberfest in the height of the harvest as you drive into the countryside to feast on authentically crafted German and Austrian specialties at that rare restaurant treasure known as Stony Run Inn.
Jaeger Schnitzel is, in fact, a signature dish here. The veal scallopini is sautéed with supple mushrooms in a cream sauce, accompanied by — what else? — homemade red cabbage and spätzle. Stony Run’s spätzle recipe yields a chewy, tasty pasta with buttery, browned, crisp edges. The meat is stunningly simple in appearance, melting in the dark brown broth, and oh-so-satisfying in that earthy-yet-complex way.
The Spinach Spätzle is topped with cream and the diner’s choice of rich bleu cheese or mozzarella; it’s also served with Stony Run’s chunky-style, savory-sweet red cabbage, prepared according to the letter of an original recipe. Cucumber salad adds a light, fresh-from-the-garden dimension.
And if you can’t wait till the main meal to get at that spätzle, start your night off with any number of well-chosen specialty ales or a single malt Scotch, enjoying that tempting appetizer labeled Hunter’s Favorite. These are tenderloin beef tips lusciously marinated in a burgundy sauce — made hearty by mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, and bacon — atop spätzle (or a hoagie roll, if you wish).
Let the Eating and Drinking Begin!
Backing up to the front of the house — the entry point of the Inn — diners can’t help but instantly feel the history of this building. You almost feel like you’ve stepped off a stagecoach and landed at your lodging for the night. To be sure, the Inn has added on a lovely, newer deck for outdoor dining and partying. But when you walk in through the entranceway, you’ll be struck first by the remarkable, comfortable, old-style bar, “uber Pennsylvania” in its patina and personality. Austin Grant is the man most likely to welcome you with his friendly smile, and you can decide right then if you want to grab a drink and converse a while or head straight back to the cozy dining areas.
The Inn’s long list of single malts is truly impressive and deep — from Laphroaig on out — as are the wine and beer lists, which boast several imports and locally favored drafts, with Paulaner Oktoberfest and Weyerbacher Imperial Pumpkin Ale facing off against Yuengling Lager and Premium Light.
The good German mood prevails with a strong group of Jägermeister cocktails, such as the J.O.G. — Jägermeister blended with orange juice and ginger ale — and the Jägerberry, made with raspberry liqueur. For a spicy, sweet-honeyed flavor, try the Bumble Bee, combining Jägermeister and Bärenjäger, black and gold (“just like our buzzy friend,” says the menu).
Austrian Bauernschmaus Heaven
Along with schnitzel (including the yummy Rahmschnitzel), the wide range of smoked meats and sausages is a serious culinary foray into the flavors of Austria. The sampler platter of Austrian Bauernschmaus is laden with roast pork (traditionally seasoned and browned on the edges), smoked pork, Bavarian bratwurst, and smoked sausage (insanely addictive). This is second to none in this neck of the woods. Served with traditional sauerkraut and tenderly light mashed potatoes dotted with fresh-picked parsley, the meats’ individual flavors really shine forth. (Think of the mashed potatoes as a palate cleanser as you slice and compare the tastes of these delicately spiced and smoked offerings. Or just sip some lager…it’ll do the same job!)
If chicken is your happy palate-place, try Stony Run Inn’s Chicken Parmesan, which seems to have its own fan club with repeat customers. Another Italian-inspired dish of note is Sautéed Scallops over Linguini.
But don’t shy from a wonderful entrée that’s rarely seen on the average menu — Chicken Paprikash. Mmmm. Chef outdoes himself with this thin breast of chicken that’s pounded silly until totally “correct” for simmering in a deep orange roux infused with paprika. The cooking style and ingredients lend an umami effect, which lingers on the tongue and suffuses the senses. It’s served with spätzle and red cabbage.
Bring on the Apple Strudel! Das Ist Gut
At the end of the meal, dessert choices are announced in delectable detail by the server — too tough to turn down. Redolent with cinnamon and spices, and rolled with paper-thin dough, is Stony Run’s absurdly good Apple Strudel; it’s more apples than pastry and is topped with real, freshly whipped cream.
Alternatively, scoop up anything that sounds like chocolate pie or cake — bound to melt your heart. Add a cup of fine coffee, and stay as long as you can. You’re in the country now. And it’s all good.
Stony Run Inn
2409 Route 737, Stony Run
610.756.4433. (Reservations recommended)
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