Fireflies twinkle by the hundreds, rising up from city lawns and cornfields alike on a Berks County summer night. The heavy heat of the day is beginning to lift… Perfect time to head over to the oh-so-saucy Sofrito Gastro Pub near Reading’s lovely Centre Park historic district. Slip through their main bar and dining room, and head out to the outdoor cabana bar, under the stars. Ah-h-h!
Soon, owner-chef Hector Ruiz and his bustling crew send the day’s heat packing in a Cuban minute with their classy, cool mojito. This refreshing rum-based highball is a clear, tall, herby-sweet drink flavored with crushed mint leaves and limes. The on-tap, draft beer menu is a long one filled with variety. If tempted in the brew direction, Sofrito boasts 75 bottled beers to select from as well.
Memorabilia celebrating Reading’s days as a major beer hub are prominently displayed, from hung vintage mirrors and metallic ads – like the yellow and red Sunshine Premium Beer sign – to the six-foot-tall, old- time Reading Beer cooler shaped like a bottle standing at the back of the bar area (though it’s been there for decades, this monument still works hard and looks like the catch of the day in an Antiques Roadshow episode). Black and white photos, too, of the City’s earlier days are interspersed on the walls, providing conversation pieces to diners as they gather to eat and set aside the cares of the day.
FUN FOR FOODIES
But Sofrito’s is much, much more than a lively watering hole. Since Ruiz took it over with his “globally inspired, locally created” theme, the restaurant has come up with a lunch and dinner menu that appeals mightily to foodies near and far. “We’re getting customers from all around—Lebanon, Montgomery, even Philadelphia,” says Ruiz. “It’s crazy,” he smiles. It’s a good kind of crazy, obviously, for a man who worked his way up in the food business.
“I’ve always been a back-of-the-house person,” he recalls. “I love what I do. If I didn’t cook, I wouldn’t know what I’d do.” Inventive as a cook and dedicated to high-flavor offerings, Ruiz offers a popular Churrasco Steak Night (Wednesdays) and an AYCE wings night (Thursdays). His bar tacos are mini specialty appetizers featuring succulent pulled pork, fresher-than-fresh pico de gallo, and chimichurri, that famous Argentinean sauce.
Selecting an appetizer is no easy feat. From Cuban spring rolls to viandas (veggie chips) to chicken empanadas made with roasted corn salsa, it’s all mouth-watering. The fried avocado (Aguacate Frito) is delish. But Sofrito’s nachos are best for hanging out, just enjoying the soft breezes. Ruiz outdoes himself with this heaping platter of locally made tortillas plastered with smooth yellow cheese and pulled pork, topped by tangy sour cream, chopped red onions and pico de gallo. They deliver serious heat without being killer hot, making this a straightforward fun food with both crunch and meatiness. Again, the fresh factor is striking.
FRESHNESS = FLAVOR
“Fresh” and “Sofrito” are synonymous, says Ruiz, sporting a “SofritoFresh” t-shirt. “Fresh, to me, means cool.”
He explains, “I do things the old-fashioned way. I buy stuff every day. I buy fish every day. For my salads, I buy directly from Reading Roots Urban Farm, and whatever I can get locally, I buy, like at Leesport Farmers Market, and so on.”
The ultimate in frocal, Ruiz’s famous Centre Park Urban Salad is a sassy, colorful, delectable combination that explodes with juiciness and flavor. It’s like a chopped salad, only better—full of moisture in every bite with its sweet and salty mix of dark and red-leaf lettuces, mangoes, shaved purple onions, Spanish olives, roasted red peppers, chopped tomatoes and plentiful, fragrant herbs in a rosemary-garlic vinaigrette. Its success lies as much in textures as in taste, having just enough crunchiness and softness alternating back and forth in each mouthful. Whether for lunch with an office-mate, or as a dinner salad, this one satisfies in the healthiest of ways.
The Bleu Cheese Steak Club sandwich tenders a hearty grilled steak with lettuce, tomato, roasted red peppers and melted bleu cheese inside pressed ciabatta bread. It’s plated with slender French fries that still hold the potato’s skin, or try the fried yucca or plantains for a change of pace. Add a Dos Equis and kick back.
If it's a seafood entrée that beckons, try the Sofrito Mussels served with homemade coconut bread, or perhaps the handcrafted crab cakes served with chipotle tartar sauce. Another dish to swoon over, though, is Jerk-Painted Salmon. It’s grilled to just coral pink inside, slathered with jazzy jerk spicing. A testament to the chef’s brilliance, the fish is not hot enough to call the fire department, thus allowing the salmon to marry up happily with a luscious serving of subtly piquant, addictive yellow Spanish rice. Black beans on the side, in their rich, slow-cooked broth of herbs, carrots, and celery, further complement the dish.
Lastly, add a side of sweet fried bananas, maduros, for the final stamp of authority on this passport to gastronomic pleasure.
SOFRITO GASTRO PUB | 220 Douglass St., Reading. | 610.373.3115 | On-street parking | sofritogastropub.com. HOURS Mon.-Tues.: 4-10pm | Wed., Th., Sun.: Noon-10pm | Fri.- Sat.: 11am-Midnight
BY MARIAN FRANCES WOLBERS | PHOTOS BY HEIDI REUTER
