The Barley Mow in West Reading is like the Fort Knox of beer, a golden destination for anyone with a passion for swigging excellent brew, boasting some 750 craft beer varieties from more than 100 American breweries. Their draft selection rotates constantly. On a recent evening, a sincerely stunning, uber-refreshing Neshaminy Creek Cherry Hibiscus Wheat (American pale) delivered a rounded cherry flavor that cooled all the way down. For those who love German-style Pilsner, the Industrial Arts Metric Pils was spot-on classic and light, hailing from Garnerville, NY.
With its congenial open spaces, very comfortable seating (check out the leather-stitched chairs), and wood-brick-rock motifs, The Barley Mow exudes comfort and style. It feels inviting: a good place to unwind with family and friends, or for a date. And FYI, designated drivers and non-imbibers will be able to enjoy a wide variety of non-alcoholic drinks by local Reading Soda Works, such as black cherry, cola, root beer (regular and diet) and blueberry birch.
But there’s a whole lot more to this story…
The food: Exotic.
The menu: Unlike any other.
Executive Chef Jim Churchman: eclectic, uniquely daring, thoroughly committed to culinary adventure and the sheer sensory pleasure of eating.
In a nutshell, you won’t be ordering the same old Velveeta nachos and standard chicken wings that haunt and limit many beer scenes. You’ll be entering a world of food that is literally made for the craft beer experience.
Start with Bao Buns, Then Nosh
The Bao Buns lure diners in like sirens singing from an ocean shore. These soft dumpling appetizers are offered three ways: Braised Duck, Roasted Mushroom, and Korean Fried Chicken. Imagine three cloud-soft handheld pockets made from wheat flour, which hold crispy chicken bites nesting in kimchi crema and frim fram sauce, resting on a bed of yummy, crisscrossed corn crisps. Chef Jim explains his fabulous frim fram sauce: “Like most of my formulas, it’s a mashup of different cultures. This one is Peruvian/Thai with fresh herbs, coconut vinegar, sour cream, four types of fresh chilies, palm sugar, lime juice, etc.” Talk about flavor fireworks! Granted, the buns are a bit messy (so grab a napkin), but they’re spicy hot and popping with aromatic zing.
After sampling Korea, why not embrace Philadelphia and Chinatown simultaneously? The South Philly Hoagie Spring Rolls are one of many enticing offerings under the “Nosh” heading on Barley Mow’s menu. You might say they’re unusually familiar, since some of these dishes honor traditional flavors that get redirected in a gourmet way, kicking dinner up to new levels of gustatory delight.
Nice heat emanates from these open-edged eggrolls, and — mamma mia! — the Italian flavors explode with the combined prosciutto, Genoa salami, ricotta cheese, cherry peppers, a Parmesan herb crumble and — ready? — South Philly chutney! Texturally interesting, garlicky, salt ’n peppery, tangy…
Windy City Duet (Or Everything You Ever Wanted in a Hotdog)
Moving on to Chicago…The Windy City Duet consists of two overstuffed angus-beef hot dogs in oh-so-buttery poppy rolls. Two people can fill up on these, they’re so ample in size and happiness. Inspired by traditions invented in Chicago, they’re carefully crafted with Chef’s own wild amalgam of ingredients and textures, which absolutely enhances that delicious beef. Beer cheese and horseradish mustard on the dogs deliver smooth mouth-feel, while slender Napa cabbage strips in a poppyseed slaw serve as counter-crunch. Roma tomato, dill pickle spears, candied onions and potato hay ensure sweet and sour and classic flavor meshings in an exciting crescendo. Stop thinking! Just bite down into all that juicy goodness and indulge in an experience you’ll never forget.
From Roasted Veggie Mélange made with tahini coconut yogurt crema, to Peruvian Chicken, to Pastrami Tots, the worldly variety of this menu goes on and on.
Pastrami Melt: Bold Divinity in a Marble-Rye Sandwich
Who doesn’t perk up when a restaurant mentions those two sacred words: house-smoked? The sliced pastrami fattening up Barley Mow’s Pastrami Melt is superb, and made artful — once again — by a masterful kitchen, where a sandwich becomes much more than a sandwich. First, this dish is almost embarrassingly mouthwatering to view up close; next, the smoky allure makes your nose nod, Yes! Painted with “savory schmear” and moistened by caramelized onion, plus roasted shiitake, the sandwich innards are stacked on top of a last layer of fat macaroni and cheese! What? Such an invention. (Where’s Guy Fieri when you need him? He should drive in to West Reading to inhale this gorgeous sandwich.) It’s served with an arugula salad doused with oil and occasional slivers of red cabbage and romaine, for a peppery side that plays well against the sandwich’s meaty-cheesiness. The whole creation is sealed with intensity by a bold marble rye crisped just right on the griddle.
The Barley Mow
719 Penn Avenue, West Reading
Facebook: @barleymowbeer
484.926.2094
Hours:
Tues-Sat: Noon-10pm
Sunday Brunch: 10am-4pm
*Kitchen closes 1 hour before close.
