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Home Food & Drink Restaurant Profiles

Train Watching & Fine Dining at Saucony Creek Franklin Station Brew Pub

Marian Frances Wolbers by Marian Frances Wolbers
November 6, 2020
in Restaurant Profiles
Train Watching & Fine Dining at Saucony Creek Franklin Station Brew Pub

: Heidi E. Reuter

: Heidi E. Reuter

: Heidi E. Reuter

: Heidi E. Reuter

: Heidi E. Reuter

In a city famous for being the hub of the Reading Railroad, so momentous, so famous in American history that it’s a permanent stop on the Monopoly gameboard — anyone yearning for a constantly thrilling look at the past grandeur and ornate details of an incredible train station should head over to 7th and Franklin streets in downtown Reading. (Plenty of off-street parking, by the way.) For sheer atmosphere, it’s hard to beat Saucony Creek’s Franklin Station Brew Pub. Natural light streams in, bathing every gorgeous detail.

While drinking and dining at this stunningly restored station, you’ll watch impressively huge Norfolk Southern trains rumble by from an unrivalled, close-up vantage point. Wow. And what pure joy it is to experience the superb wide-ranging New American menu, whether lunching with friends and co-workers, or with family (there is a Lilʼ People Menu). For lingering over a romantic twilight meal, it’s ideal.

With Executive Chef Martha Cavarretta in the engine room, the Franklin Street experience is a win-win. Chef Martha is a stunningly creative cook who fell in love with the glorious old mansions and feel of historic Centre Park Reading and moved here. The award-winning Saucony Creek Brewery owners invited her to develop their cuisine, and she has lent verve and innovation to match the unique atmosphere. “I love what I do — what I’ve been doing for 36 years!” says Chef Martha, who hails from Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn. “I’m passionate about it.” That passion shows in every single dish.

Hail Fine Nosh That Pairs with Ale!

With 20 taps going, beer lovers have impressive choices. Pennsylvania wines are available, too, as are handcrafted cocktails, cider and mead.

The Crostini features bread from the legendary Conshohocken Bakery, and the first sensation that impresses is Chef’s homemade, super-smooth, soft, mellow ricotta. Capers and fresh basil kick in aromatically on juicy heirloom tomatoes.

The careful blend of new and old, modern and nostalgic, evidences a clear theme running so gloriously throughout many of Chef Martha’s inventions.

From the Cold Plates Menu, try the Pickled Watermelon Salad, where dill, cucumber, fresh jalapeno and goat cheese artfully unite in a refreshing burst of lightly vinegared watermelon juice; the crunch of the melon is countered by sweet-salty cheese.

The Ceviche is complex and citrusy, joining shrimp, codfish and baby octopus with avocado, mango, orange, lime and lemon — served South American-style with crunchy plantain slices.

In the Small Plates Menu, try the luscious IPA Baked Beer Cheese & Pretzel Braid, a beloved homage to Pennsylvania’s heritage. Truly unusual are the Brussels Avocado Tacos, one of many gluten-free and vegan options, giving crispy Brussels Sprouts and gentle avocado starring roles in double-soft shells enlivened with cilantro, onions and an Asian sauce made with honey and tamari.

Cheese Mac Balls from the Beer Garden Menu are sure-pleasers as they contain five cheeses — Gruyere, Parmesan, mozzarella, white Cheddar and cream cheese — and are served with dipping marinara sauce.

Flatbreads use House Craft Stonefly IPA Dough. “We make our own flatbreads in-house and we make them with our beer,” says Chef Martha. “There’s beer in pretty much everything,” she smiles. “We’re a brewery, and we like to make it shine!” Go for the beautifully presented Crispy Baked Cauliflower with refried beans, red cabbage, cilantro and some good heat, thanks to the smoked chili aioli.

Burgers, Steak, Oxtail Stew from the “Dining Car”

Back in the day, a train’s dining car was elegant, and travelers were treated to fabulous cuisine. That elegance is translated into today’s restaurant experience, right here, in downtown Reading.

Already a popular, memorable standard under the Masters list of offerings is the Franklin Station Burger, handmade, of course — a high-grade patty deepened by Chef’s bacon jam topping infused with local bourbon, some Boston Bibb lettuce and Provolone. Saucony’s Famous Fresh-Cut Fries are part of the meal, but you can order those super-satisfying fries as a side for any meal, served with original ketchup.

Other entrees include Grilled Beef Petite Filet and Slow Baked Salmon over fresh corn porridge and tomato, shallot, basil and Champagne vinaigrette.

Tender meat pulls easily in the Oxtail Stew, whose meaty gravy blesses a creamy polenta below. Smoked Gouda and Hexerei White Ale give the polenta tangy, smoky sweetness; delicate hints of cilantro tickle the nostrils with forkfuls of this richly flavored invention.

‘First-Place Winner’ Shrimp & Grits aren’t as homespun as they sound. Not by a country mile. This taste-treat is one of Chef Martha’s most notable masterpieces, designated NY First Place Shrimp and Grits by Brooklyn Magazine for sheer wonderfulness. Delightfully large shrimp come laden with a gorgeous brown-red Guajillo and Arbol Chile Sauce, awesomely peppery on perfect-texture grits that were prepared in a garlic confit with extra virgin olive oil, butter and cream. It’s the sort of dish you’ll ponder fondly long after you taste it.

Saucony Creek Franklin Station Brew Pub

690 Franklin St., Reading

sauconybeer.com/franklin-station

484.755.5680

Hours: 

Tues-Th: 11am-9pm

Fri & Sat: 11am-10pm

Sun: 11am-8pm

Happy Hour is Wed-Fri: 4-6pm

Want to enjoy their beer at home?

Mix-and-match by purchasing any quantity of select Saucony Creek bottles and cans, or get a growler filled with your favorite. 

Tags: Photos by Heidi Reuter
Marian Frances Wolbers

Marian Frances Wolbers

Marian Frances Wolbers loves writing about food, artwork, health, travel and spirituality. Her published work includes novels, short stories, plays, poetry and nonfiction. She has traveled widely, speaks Japanese, holds longtime memberships in Authors Guild and Dramatists Guild of America, and owns Pretzel City Press (est. 2020).

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