Summertime! And The Dining Is Fine At Union Jack’s Inn On The Manatawny

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Sprawling on the banks of a babbling creek in the Berks County countryside is Union Jack’s Inn on the Manatawny, a good-time, fine-food dining venue best experienced in the open air, where there’s ample seating on patios and porches. Inside the rustic inn is a fully stocked bar and comfy tables good for any time of year, including winter. But summertime is clearly the season when Union Jack’s comes alive in a very big way.

Partly that’s due to an amazing, historical music stage where — decades ago — the likes of Roy Rogers performed, according to owner Tom Steigelmann. He and his family are the ones responsible for the British flag theme: “My mother’s from Liverpool,” says Tom. “And I grew up in Liverpool.” So the Union Jack is a nod to his roots, even though, as he points out, “I don’t have an accent anymore.” Of course, bands and singer-entertainers still create magic on that same music stage, providing lively strains that lift up to the trees and float off on gentle breezes.

As expected, beers from the U.K. and Europe (Belgium, Germany, and others) comprise a good portion of a noteworthy craft beer list that seems as long and mobile as the creek itself. (Beer-lovers regularly rate this locale as a Mecca.) Drink options come from numerous well-respected, well-loved breweries from hither and yon, right down to locally made, small-batch craft beers — those lesser-known newcomers to the list that are always fun to try. A tip for stout lovers: check out the Heavy Seas Siren Noire Bourbon Barrel 2016 for its contemplative chocolate and vanilla notes and its roasted, barrel-aged, just-weighty-enough flavor. A completely different expression comes with Dogfish Head Namaste, both joyful and citrus-y.

To start the party going, look to the array of appetizers or to salads like the Pear Chop, where pears sautéed in balsamic perch on a pork chop. Garden- fresh salads are made with peppers and other veggies grown right there. The Apple Walnut Spinach Salad combines soft new spinach, chopped apples and nuts, bleu cheese, and bacon vinaigrette.

Union Jack’s French Onion Soup is coated with gobs of cheese and carries a lightly herbal, savory finish.

But don’t forget wings.

“We’re famous for our wings and wing sauces,” says Tom confidently, and his advice to “try the Honey Carib” proves him a man of wise word. That sauce is insane, and the wings themselves are so pretty, darkly orange, with black-and-white sesame seeds dotting crispy skin. Superbly aromatic, the chicken meat is perfectly white and tender inside, delivering a terrific, long-burning heat on the tongue, with sweet honey undertones. Finger-licking amazing.

Bangers and Mash and Other British Fare

Entrées range widely — Prime Rib, Broiled Crab Cakes, and Apple Honey BBQ Chicken are a few. The British specialties are top-notch traditional, from Sheperd Pie to Fish and Chips. Diners can visit Eng- land vicariously. So, what if those handsome filets of tender, light, white fish are battered in Yuengling Lager? So much the better. Drizzle some malt vinegar on top to pull that delicious flavor forward. You’ll not find a better “chip” anywhere to round out the fish ’n chips platter, as skin-edged, thinly sliced potato rounds are fried to a satisfying crunch while retaining- ing the soft potato center. Complementing the dish is refreshing coleslaw made from scratch, featuring thickly cut, creamy cabbage.

The bangers in Union Jack’s Bangers and Mash are well-sourced, sage Irish sausages, truly scrumptious, finely textured, and zingy when dipped in the HP sauce (Houses of Parliament Steak Sauce). Paired with delicious mashed potatoes, the bangers lie near a gorgeous, lawn-like sweep of bright green painted on the plate. These are peas, mostly mashed down yet punctuated by occasional lumps of whole green peas. “Mushy peas!” says Tom, laughing. “It’s a British thing.” They are good.

The B-Mo Burger Stands Tall

If beer and burgers on a delightful sunny afternoon melting into the sunset sounds exactly like your cup of tea, you’ll want to order just the right hamburger to meet the fantasy. There are no less than eight amazing burgers on deck here. One of them is the B-Mo Burger, which stands for Bourbon Molasses sauce, and which stands tall in a crowded field of burger champions in Berks County.

The reasons for this burger’s fabulousness? Seven things: texture, height, quality of meat, incredible barbecue sauce, aged Gouda, bacon, and salty-sweet — woodsy flavors that can only be described as “gourmet campfire.”

Credit for culinary quality surely goes to Chef Ryan Vogel, who’s been king of the kitchen for 13+ years and is one of several employees with similarly lengthy track records since Union Jack’s opened in 2001. This longevity indicates a commitment to high standards, smart management, and true talent in this delightful, laid-back restaurant.