King of Wings: Klinger’s at the Airport

by Marian Frances Wolbers, Photography by Heidi Reuter

March 28, 2018

8:34 AM

Heidi E. Reuter

Klinger's

Klinger’s has a dining presence in both Carsonia and Fleetwood, but their newest location at the Reading Regional Airport allows customers a wide-expanse view of open runways outside, while sitting at the bar (look out for flying darts!), a booth or a table. The airport atmosphere is spacious and uplifting, even if not so many planes are taking off from this location these days. Easily accommodating larger parties, Klinger’s at the Airport offers casual flexibility and is the kind of beer-and-wings fun place you want to go to after work or on weekends with friends and family. During the NFL playoffs, football fans spilled out from the restaurant into the airport itself and found themselves on TV to boot.

Twelve taps of beer — seven of which are dedicated to local ales and specialty crafts — are a big draw. Their own brew, Saint Benjamin Stage One Klinger IPA, is exquisitely refreshing and not overly bitter at all: lightly hoppy, Klinger’s is fresh and peachy and smoothly citrus-y. Other enticing drafts on a recent night included Southern Tier Cinnamon Roll (imperial ale) and Four Hands Chocolate Milk (stout).

The bartenders concoct several specialty drinks as well, including the popular Bacardi-rum-based “Klinger’s on Carsonia Classic” which is a happy, fruity cocktail (semi-sweet) with Malibu peach schnapps, triple sec, juices and grenadine.

Wings with Jameson Whiskey BBQ

Without a doubt, Klinger’s wings are a must-taste. There are enough varieties to meet all palates, ranging from mild and medium to “apocalypse” and “atomic.” If you favor fat, jumbo wings made ultra-crispy-rich on the outside with a deep coating of sweet and tangy barbecue sauce, then Wings with Jameson Whiskey BBQ is a no-brainer choice for you. They’re simply great. That gooey, pungent sauce perfectly pulls out the juicy chicken flavor while the lusciously deep-fried skin imparts unrivalled satisfaction. Best of all, there’s such a thing as 60-cent wing night, which absolutely appeals to a Berks County crowd. Bleu cheese dip and celery accompany, of course.

Another wonderful appetizer: Fried Cheese — essentially Wisconsin-style cheese curds in a basket, ready for dipping into warm, house-made, velvety marinara sauce. Yummy and bite-sized, they’re shareable with friends, unless you go for the plump, beer-battered onion rings, offered with a Southwest sauce that has a kind kick to it.

Prime Rib Steak Sandwiches and Strombolis Rule

As diners might well expect at a good pub, full-size, fresh-greens salads — Cobb, Caesar, Taco, and even a Pittsburgh (that’s got homemade French fries and prime rib shavings on top) — hit some gustatory high notes. Each one is definitely a meal (plus) in itself.

Naturally, burgers command a good segment of the menu. There are no less than nine types of 100-percent fresh beef burgers, as well as a Boca-style feature for vegetarians. Turkey may be substituted for beef, per your preference. The Dutchy Burger claims its character from additions of Lebanon bologna and mustard, along with sautéed onions, American cheese, and pickles for a piquant package with local appeal.

The Philly Prime Rib Sandwich is collected inside a ciabatta bread that is absolutely perfect for this steak sandwich: it’s soft and somewhat flat (not overly large, bulky, or too crusty), easy to deal with and never in danger of falling apart like so many messy steak sandwiches are. The delicious, ample shaved pieces of meat and sautéed onions are held together with a beer-cheese sauce that saturates the beef while melting in your mouth. It is insanely good.

Some customers insist that the Philly Prime Rib Stromboli is better, but, frankly, it’s just a matter of style. The basic innards are pretty much the same — onions and shaved prime rib — but melted mozzarella and marinara make it truly Italian. Classic, Italian, Chicken Parm, Veggie, Cordon Bleu, and other strombolis are tempting choices as well.

Mac ’n Cheese with Broiled Salmon (Among Other Choices)

One thing should never change at Klinger’s: their Comfort Food menu. It matches up well with what many Berks Countians love to eat when kicking back casually, what with options like Shepherd’s Pie, a Beer-Battered Haddock Basket, and quesadillas.

An exceptional CYO Mac ’n Cheese entrée is hearty and super-cheesy. It seems as big as a city block, such a solid helping of curly, whirly macaroni cooked just al dente; the pasta’s shape holds lots of light, creamy coating. Garlic bread accompanies. For a topping, the grilled salmon is clearly a guilt-free option. After all, the omega-3 fatty acids in that lean cut of perfectly char-browned fish cancel out the rich cheese, right? Or select veggies, BBQ pork, prime rib, grilled chicken or lump crab.

Finally, there’s an Apple-Caramel Bread Pudding. It’s deceptively, fabulously straightforward, the kind Grandma made, scented with cinnamon and the aroma of hot apple pieces. The crust is light. Vanilla ice cream and planes of caramel round out this sweet, memorable treat.

Klinger’s at the Airport

2385 Bernville Rd., Reading

484.869.2814. klingerspubs.com

Other Klinger’s locations include: Klinger’s on Carsonia, 721 Carsonia Avenue, Reading

Klinger’s of Fleetwood, 24 E. Main St., Fleetwood

Hours: Open daily from 11am to at least 10pm. Weekends until 12am.

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