Dans at Green Hills: All the Fine Touches

January 27, 2014

2:24 PM

In September of 2012, the renowned fine dining restaurant called Dans stepped outside the City of Reading and headed to the hills, literally — to the 200-year-old country setting of another fine dining landmark, the Inn at Green Hills. The result? A marriage made in culinary heaven. Preserving the high quality and select menu offerings of both establishments, proprietors Bill Woolworth and Monir deserve a pat on the back for a job — no, a labor of love — well done. Their congeniality and attention to every detail, coupled with unabashed devotion to fabulous food, ensures a unique dining experience.

For the Love of Food

For an intimate Valentine’s Day dinner (perhaps with an engagement ring tucked into the pocket?), for any special occasion, or just for the sheer joy of good food and wine, Dans at Green Hills promises perfection. And if you dine on Feb. 11, 12 or 13, there will be complimentary champagne.

Here are a few examples of the caring, creative touches that set this restaurant on a tall pedestal:

The Lobster Thermidor, for instance, delights without intimidating the diner. That’s because the lobster meat is expertly cooked, then taken out of the shell and carefully reinserted back in the lobster’s gorgeous housing for colorful presentation. It’s paired with a gentle herb-Parmesan risotto. (It’s on the menu on Feb. 14, 15 and 16 along with veal chops drizzled with melted truffle butter.)

Each soup receives tender attention from the start, based on the diner’s preference. Woolworth explains, “All the soups are vegetable-based. That’s so that vegetarians can always eat them. We only add any cream and butter at the end of cooking.”

Special requests are not frowned upon; they’re normal. Woolworth says, leaning forward to make his point, “We make modifications. If someone wants their Asparagus Soup served without the lump crab, for instance, we will do that.” Allergies happen, says Woolworth, and servers are accustomed to explaining to diners that their dietary restrictions need not keep them from ordering what they want.

The wine list is hand-picked by Woolworth, and it is one of the most extensively elegant lists found in a 100-mile radius. But there are beers included as well: again, it’s all a reflection of Dans at Green Hills’ intention to please every palate. A full bar is also available.

Each Course a Romance

On a recent visit, starting with a crisp-toned glass of Louis Latour Pouilly-Vinzelles (Chardonnay), familiar menu favorites proved to be the predictably sumptuous experience they have been for years, as the restaurant stays true to its contemporary American and French roots.

The Sweet Potato Soup simply never will leave the menu, because customers ask for it all the time. And no wonder. The aroma floats up from the bowl tantalizingly, bringing early satisfaction even before you dip your spoon into the thick, creamy ochre liquid. The savory scent is an exotic mingling of the sweet potato plus bits of spiced apple, sunflower seeds, a touch of cinnamon and nutmeg, fresh thyme, and a spot of spiced whipped cream sprinkled with pretzel dust — “for a little Berks County flair,” smiles Woolworth.

Or try the Shrimp and Lobster Bisque and other soups du jour.

Mixed greens, dried cranberries, feta and grape tomatoes in a simple House Salad enjoy a splash of homemade Italian dressing made with fresh herbs and white balsamic vinegar, for a pretty plate. Fresh lemons are served in the Caesar Salad option.

The Spinach Salad joyfully jazzes up your mouth with its perfect little baby spinach leaves, pomegranate seeds (so juicy and crunchy!), dried bleu cheese, and croutons, all embraced by a redwine and honey-Dijon vinaigrette.

As a main entrée, the Filet Mignon shines. Kingly, it perches on a mountain of mashed potatoes and delivers a melt-in-your-mouth experience, with the steak called up to full flavor by a superbly tangy red-wine Bordelaise sauce. Executive Chef Michael must have gotten an A+ in steak class at the CIA.

Chef’s expertise wows with another perfect dish: Twin Duck Breasts. These succulent morsels are browned and crisped at the edges, for roundly rich flavor. With reliable panache and skill, the kitchen delivers a French country hearth effect in both flavor and presentation; it’s served with risotto flavored delicately with garden parsley and Parmesan cheese, next to long green beans al dente and baby carrots. As for wine, note that the duck flavor gets a loving boost from its best friend, a Chilean Carmenere red wine with hints of dark berries and spices.

Chocolate, Of Course

For dessert, order coffee or espresso and try the lovely and smart Baked Apple Berry Tart, which looks and tastes like it came off the royal pie shelves in Alice in Wonderland.

But V is for Valentine's — and Valrhona Chocolate Soufflé. This imported cocoa decadence can steal your heart if you let it. Do enjoy vanilla bean icing on top, too, and fresh berries. The chocolate’s robust bitterness melds with the saccharine for a truly satisfying ending to a classy dinner.

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