Seafood Shanty

The Captain is Calling

November 26, 2012

9:59 AM

That summer vacation at the shore feeling pretty far away right about now? No matter. Here in Berks County, you can chase away that landlocked languor in a matter of minutes by heading to dinner at the Seafood Shanty, near Wyomissing. Conveniently located in the heart of holiday shopping at Broadcasting Square, the restaurant has sturdy booths of dark amber-colored wood reminiscent of a ship docked in the islands, ready to service customers hungry for the likes of fresh clams, raw oysters, broiled fish, crab cakes, tropical drinks and key lime pie.

The Daily Special

Go ahead: Get a tall, sweetly sharp Pineapple Under the Sea or a tangy White Peach Sangria to sip on while checking out “The Daily Catch,” a specials menu that looks like an ad page out of an old magazine (though the date is today). It’s all in the seafaring mood. Offered on a recent evening were a seared ahi tuna appetizer atop Asian slaw and an enticing champagne-shallot oyster stew. The “Catch” also featured coconut-crusted catfish with pineapple salsa, plus a steak and cake for those who want the best of land and sea: a flat iron steak paired with succulent, broiled Maryland crab cakes.

As You Wish

A platter of just-delivered fresh fish served on an aromatic cedar plank is hard to beat, though, especially since you get to first select the fish—flounder, salmon, tilapia, and more—and then choose your favorite topping and preparation style—blackened, butter-crumb, or Meuniere (sautéed in onions, garlic, shallots, and wine sauce).

Swordfish is, of course, always enjoyable simply broiled, but when this highest and mightiest white-meat steak is first grilled and then glazed with apricot maple and all cedar-smoky, get set for an elegant suffusion of flavor. Each swordfish chunk flakes easily onto the fork, yielding deeply tall, moist pieces with that unmistakably hearty texture unique to this species, its edges lightly tart-sweet. Healthy, tasty, stomach-filling, elegant. (The “lunch-size portion” is large; hard to imagine what a “dinner portion” might be.)

Grit 'Er Done

Complementing the entree are creamy, cheesy grits, an ode to the South reminiscent of a mac ’n cheese—only seamlessly creamy and full-bodied. A nice change from the standard pilaf, it’s an innocent dish that quickly sneaks into your heart. It is best friends with the fish on the plate, so much so that you’ll catch yourself thinking: “Note to self: Don’t ever forget to order this side every time.”

Grits also show up in General Manager Alex Weisberger’s personal favorite dish, shrimp and grits. Made with Andouille sausage, this specialty sails your taste buds right down to Charleston.

The Seafood Shanty’s house dressing for tossed salad is one of the original, long-guarded recipes purchased for the restaurant’s revival, says Weisberger, and remains a huge hit. It’s piquant and refreshing, like a white Thousand-Island-y version of a creamy Italian dressing. Lightly poured over crisp lettuce and other garden treasures, the dressing transforms a satisfyingly traditional tossed salad into a taste treat worth lingering over.

The original Seafood Shanty chain was hugely popular some 15 years ago, and bringing back some of their oldies and goodies is a crucial part of the restaurant’s success, according to Weisberger. He and the staff delight in hearing all the stories from Berks Countians who never thought they’d see their favorite haunt return. Customers insist that, years ago, the old restaurant allowed customers to buy pints of salad dressing to take home—it’s that delicious. So the practice was reinstated, along with the old-fashioned, uber-oyster crackers and fresh horseradish served at every table.

Marvelous For Meat-Eaters, Too

For the record, meat-and-potato types can enjoy the Shanty every bit as much as their fish- and shellfish-loving friends. The “Landlubber” menu features a wide variety of entrees, including a mouthwatering Chicken Milanese, thinly pounded and pan-fried, warmly garlic-flavored with a generous, toasty Parmesan crust topped with a lemon and rosemary sauce. A whole sprig of rosemary, leafy tips blackened by the cooking process, curls attractively along the length of the cutlet on the plate.

“Sea Salt New Potatoes” are red spuds that match well as a side. A tad hot-spicy they are, though, made with Old Bay seasoning.

Desserts include a triumvirate of old favorites: the Shanty’s famed chocolate mousse, Key lime pie, and molten pecan pie. The latter gooey goodness indulges in giant, toasted, whole pecans lining the top, a deep filling inside, and a graham crust below. Nutty, caramelized decadence, buttery sweet with melting vanilla ice cream, this pie’s a perfect a la mode experience, sitting pretty in a deep black cast-iron mini-skillet.

Smiling as he talks about the meal’s sweet endings, Chef Patrick Dwyer proves his mettle extends well beyond perfect lobster, flounder and swordfish. Desserts are homemade. His bread pudding is singularly rich, spongy in texture, and with a warm surprise on the bottom—a layer of chocolate. Like the pecan pie, this is served in an individual skillet. Tip: Ask for two spoons.


SEAFOOD SHANTY | www.seafoodshanty.com | 610.372.3255.

Set the GPS to 2713 N. Meridian Blvd., Spring Ridge, and ride this memorable food wave.



HOURS: Sun.-Wed.: 11am-10pm |  Th.-Sat.: 11am-Midnight

1 of 14