Zhuang's Garden

May 28, 2013

2:22 PM

From the outside, the restaurant doesn’t seem like it has four enormous hibachi tables, but it’s got all that and more—a full sushi bar plus booths and tables stretching into its vast interior. Zhuang’s Garden in Exeter clearly is an inviting locale for large groups, families and friends, or simply for an intimate dinner of sashimi and sushi rolls. Chef Zhuang’s culinary talents shine in a mixture of traditional dishes and fusion creations from China, Japan and Thailand.

For Starters...

In summer, it’s a joy to start dinner with cold sesame noodles. These are a staple in many Chinese restaurants, normally bearing the distinctive touch of each chef: some are light and subtle, while some have more depth. In some, the focus is more on the sesame; in others, it’s more on the peanut notes. This noodle dish has a thoroughly substantial feel, with a touch of peanut butter throughout. (In other words, very Berks County-friendly.) Thin slivers of just-blanched green beans provide extra crunch on top of the warm, dark sauce. Served on a large plate as an appetizer, this selection is ample enough to take home for another serving the day after.

Anyone who loves noodles, in fact, will love the numerous options on the menu, from pad Thai and other Thai favorites to Japanese thick udon noodles in soup to old-fashioned, hearty Chinese lo mein.

Back to appetizers, though, and definitely back to the sushi bar: A fantastic invention is Chef Zhuang’s crab sushi roll—one of 30-some items on the House Special Sushi Roll page—which melds Japanese and Chinese culinary approaches, each bite containing a blend of textures and tastes. Sliced into individual mouthfuls, and arranged like a pretty cake, this roll astounds because it not only lives up to the memory of the previous bite, but surpasses that memory. The soft and delicate inside is balanced by the slightly crunchy and piquant outside; the tender seafood, light and airy, is complemented by the surrounding rice—very aromatic—which cradles it. Paper-thin slices of pickled ginger and biting wasabi served to the side of the platter add flavor for the palate and color for the eye. Once again, the portion is generous. It’s practically a meal in itself.

And it is fresh. Even the simplest of vegetarian sushi options—kappa maki, or cucumber roll—is unusually fresh, and can be ordered alone, or can be added to a platter with sweet egg-topped sushi or tofu rolls.

Amazing Entrees...

Berks Countians who favor the standard, American-oriented Chinese food of their youth will enjoy the chicken chow mein in its smooth white sauce, served with a large bowl of crunchy fried noodles on the side. Equal portions of celery, onion slices, mung bean sprouts, and white chicken breast characterize this entrée.

The orange beef and pineapple chicken entrees are equally enticing. All arrive on square, white platters accompanied by Chinese-style white rice or a robust pork fried rice.

If your party is more adventurous, Chef Zhuang will probably steer you toward one of his favorite dishes to prepare: Wok’s Delight. No less than four sources of sea and land proteins join forces here, in an amalgam of jumbo shrimp, sliced chicken, scallops and pork, arranged in what Chef humbly describes as a “special sauce.” It is special, indeed—sumptuous, satisfying, and well-constructed to allow unique tastes that normally are hard to combine successfully.

A creative mingling of ingredients seems to be a specialty of this fairly new establishment. Over in the hibachi area, filet mignon, lobster, steak and shrimp are flamed up right in front of daring diners. It’s a good idea to call ahead and see if the hibachi chefs are on duty, since hot-surface cuisine requires special tending.

The eggplant with garlic sauce proves a good counterpoint and accompaniment to meatier entrees, and holds its own as a vegetable main entrée as well, both in size and distinctiveness. On the menu, this dish is marked with a small red asterisk designating spiciness, but the heat and garlic tones of this dish are perfectly proportioned, delicate. The fat, angular purple hunks of eggplant are bathed in a shiny, rich, deep-brown sauce and carry their own accompaniment of carrots ratés—very finely grated carrots in a marinade and fresh parsley. The carrots and parsley provide both savory and contrasting accents.

The Finishing Touch...

An exotic dessert list includes such light touches as green tea ice cream, a cool semi-sweet favorite in many Japanese restaurants; there’s also ginger ice cream and a remarkable red bean ice cream. Or you can try tempura fried ice cream, fried cheesecake (who would have thought?), or a sweet sugar Chinese-style donut. The tempura fried banana is a true treat, especially with traditional tea to sip.

ZHUANG’S GARDEN Shelbourne Square,5480 Perkiomen Ave., Reading | 610.582.0088 | Zhuangsgarden.com

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